A year after a series of scandals, the Champagne harvest is under pressure to improve the living conditions of seasonal workers

In 2023, the Champagne grape harvest was marred by scandals, with deaths during the harvest, the employment of undocumented immigrants and mistreatment. One year after what was described as the “harvest of shame”, how did the sector react? Franceinfo investigated.

During the 2023 harvest, Champagne wasshaken by several dramas. In a context of strong heat, five seasonal workers had died.Investigations had also been opened into “human trafficking”, with the use of underpaid illegal immigrants or workers housed in accommodation deemed unfit.

At the end of September, while the grape harvest begins in Bordeaux, it ends in Champagne, where franceinfo went. What about a year later? Like every year, between 100 000 and 120 000 Harvesters came from all over France and abroad to pick the grapes by hand, as required by the prestigious appellation. Épernay, in the Marne, is the capital of champagne.

In one of the vineyards surrounding the city center, Inga is leaning over the grapes. Coming from Lithuania, this is her first harvest. LThe young woman assures us that everything is fine… Or almost. : “We just need water, to drink when it’s hot, just need water”she said. Bottles are available, but they are located at the very end of the row of vines, in the employer’s truck.

Justine, a few kilometers away, returned to work in a house she knows well, contrary to his salary : “This year, I admit that I don’t know. Compared to a salary where, in the fields, we are paid 1 100-1 200 euros per month, if we can get the same thing in 10 days, we will be happy. It also depends on the pace at which we go”she explains.

“In Champagne, we know that we have to sell, that’s why we work on a piecework basis.”

Justine, worker in the Champagne vineyards

to franceinfo

Task-based means that pay depends on the quantity collected. MBut this year there are fewer grapes, so less work. Csome recruiters, who act as intermediaries between winegrowers and grape harvesters, benefit from this.in front of Epernay station, This year again, men, often from Africa, sometimes with refugee status, are waiting for one of the vans that come and go to recruit them at any price.

Djibril came from Paris for his fourth harvest. “IThey come and offer us 60 or 50 euros per day”he says, while the legal minimum per day is just over 73 euros.

Djibril found a paid place at a rate close to this legal minimum, but was housed in very difficult conditions. : “Where I slept three days ago, where I worked, it was a slope, a mountainhe describes. They put up tents for us : you can’t sleep, you’re slipping, I haven’t slept all night.” While theIt is forbidden to place grape harvesters in tents, we see a lot of them around Epernay, on land or in the woods.

“When the grape harvest begins, we come, we manage to sleep, we sleep in the street. In the ‘capital of champagne’, as they say, they are all like that: they have no accommodation. Before, yes, at the time…”

Djibril, worker in the vineyards in Champagne

to franceinfo

The labor inspectorate tells us that it has identified several tent dwellings, which resulted in immediate rehousing by the employers. MBut according to her, the checks are going well overall.

Many winegrowers explain that they can no longer accommodate these seasonal workers because of the number of required standards: “It has become too expensive”they say. Romain Colin welcomes us to one of his plots south of Épernay. CThis year, he directly hired travelers, who have their caravan, or Bulgarian grape harvesters via a service provider who takes care of accommodation. But sometimes the providers can’t find accommodation either. and themselves call on service providers. Unot subcontracting of subcontracting, which further distances grape harvesters and winegrowers, regret some professionals.

To improve things, a new plan was put in place this year.A kind of guide to good practices has been distributed to winegrowers, intermediaries and grape harvesters.A former military base has also been rehabilitated near Reims, to accommodate more than 700 grape harvesters this year. Eand then some big houses take initiatives : Moet & Chandon renovates buildings to turn them into housing and wants to rely less on service providers, seeking to recruit at least 60% of grape harvesters directly.

In addition to around twenty labour inspectors – more than last year – and in addition of the gendarmerie, The CGT is crisscrossing the plots with leaflets in eight languages, to remind grape pickers of their rights.The employer, a service provider, arrives and the discussion begins. “I think there was a big awakening in the whole profession last yearhe assures, Even as a service provider, we are enormously exposed”. The sector knows that it is expected to deliver on this issue of working conditions. Last year’s tragedies were reported abroad, “at the risk of tarnishing the image of champagne and its region” emblematic, recognizes the Interprofessional Committee, which represents winegrowers and the big houses.

However, a shadow over the picture persists this year again : a controversial decree, published at the beginning of July, allows employers to employ grape pickers 10 days in a row. If this This measure is welcomed by winegrowers, who argue that it is common sense because it is a very short period, The CGT and certain elected officials denounce a scandalous decree, which puts employees in danger.