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Panacea: exquisite remedy

In the sea of ​​restaurant openings, real gems can hide. You shouldn’t miss out on these. The well-crafted universe of Catherine Couvet Desrosiers, chef of the celebrated Foxy for the last four years, is one of the new must-sees. Panacée should therefore be listed high on your list of recent restaurants to try.

A first glance at the dining room on Rue Atateken reveals a large U-shaped bar with about fifteen seats. When we point out to our hostess that the space evokes a more subdued version of the late Hôtel Herman, a beloved restaurant on Boulevard Saint-Laurent that closed in 2017, she confirms that this was her intention, brought to life by the architecture studio Mise à jour and the contractor Les deux marteaux. There is also a small, slightly more private room in the back with a few tables for two or four.

“I cooked at Hôtel Herman between my jobs at Bouillon Bilk and Cadet,” says Catherine Couvet. “For my restaurant, I took inspiration from lots of places where I worked. There are also the late Relae and Manfreds in Copenhagen where we cooked in front of the customers. Getting a first comment from customers is really valuable.”

The first bites are also prepared behind the bar at Panacée by the person the chef calls a “Swiss army knife,” Laurent Cassis. The chef is also a sommelier. He takes care of the beautiful wine list with Maude-Andrée Meloche. Very nice choices, young and lively, rub shoulders with a few older vintages unearthed in the precious reserves of Quebec agencies.

Working with the distinguished sommelier (now co-owner) Véronique Dalle at Foxy, the chef developed a delicate style of cuisine that allows for true love matches between dishes and wines. This approach follows her to Panacée where she and her team offer a three- or five-plate course at $60 and $75 respectively. This menu is not 100% imposed. There are a few choices to be made for each course.

We cannot recommend enough that you opt for the full package, otherwise you will miss out on the pre-desserts and desserts from the talented pastry chef Jessy Farrar, from Hélicoptère, an excellent restaurant in Hochelaga.

Panacée is named after a reimagined version of the Penicillin cocktail that was served at Foxy. “The name has stuck with me because I think it epitomizes the definition of hospitality. There’s nothing like a good meal, good wine and good friends to get us back on our feet,” says the chef, who can now create that magic at home.

Open Wednesday to Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.
1701 Atateken Street, Montreal

Eve Dumas, The Press

Visit the Panacea website

Opening

Bertha’s Rotisserie, grilled chicken to take away in Outremont

Bertha’s Rôtisserie is a new counter located on Van Horne Avenue in Outremont. The main dishes are grilled chicken, whole, quartered, in sandwiches or salads, accompanied by rice, coleslaw and yucca fries, typical of Peru. “In South America, chicken is an important part of the diet. Here, you can order it spicy, mild or medium. Yucca, an emblematic vegetable of Peru, is a little more fibrous than potatoes, and it withstands transport well, so it’s perfect for takeout,” explains co-owner Pablo Rojas, who is of Peruvian origin and says that Bertha is his grandmother’s name.

Bertha’s Rotisserie is the fourth address of the Provisions group, after the Provisions butcher shop/wine bar, Le Petit Italien and the Dominion Bar. The rotisserie is located right next to the butcher shop. A perfect address for those who live and work in the neighborhood and the surrounding area and who want a simple, quality meal, with a Peruvian touch.

Open Tuesday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.
1134, Van Horne Avenue, Outremont

Olivia Levy, The Press

Novelty

A Vietnamese brunch by Le Red Tiger and Le Passé Composé

The Red Tiger recently launched a brunch menu that combines French and Vietnamese cuisine, created in collaboration with the chef and owner of Passé Composé Arnaud Glay. Offered on weekends only at the Technopôle Angus branch, the experience is a journey. There are some classic Vietnamese dishes like banh mi, garnished with a sunny-side-up duck egg, or bò né, made with sautéed and braised beef accompanied by fried eggs. The team also had fun creating fusion plates where the flavor combinations are surprising and successful. Think of the French toast, crispy with its panko crust and accompanied by a vanilla and white chocolate flan, or the poached egg – one of Passé Composé’s signature dishes – reinvented here with bone marrow, garlic and lemongrass snails, fried wontons, all topped with a white wine sauce.

The famous Red Tiger cocktails are also on the menu. There are several to choose from, including the Me Luv You Long Time and the Thai Colada, or you can indulge in the Vietnamese iced coffee that can be enhanced with a touch of cognac. The Red Tiger brunch menu is a great way to rediscover the Vietnamese canteen and enjoy dishes by Arnaud Glay while waiting for his establishment in the Old Port to reopen in the fall.

Saturday and Sunday, 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
4051, rue Molson, local 130, Montreal

Florence Dancause, The Press

Visit the Red Tiger website