This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
Some wines to find and taste before they disappear from the shelves.
Jeio, Bisol Desiderio & fils, Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore Brut, Veneto, Italy ($20.40 – 14820499)
In certain upscale circles of the bubble, it goes without saying that the one from the Italian North-East looks like small fry. However, whatever your affinities or your dispositions, the glera grape variety released from its sugars and fermented in closed vats under low pressure remains, like the natural sparkling which enjoys the same astonishing popularity, a must for whom the festive character and carefree of a meeting is essential. This Jeio is alluring with its floral notes, its lightness and its very moderate dosage here. A finger of Campari in a cocktail adds to the joy here. (5) ***
Ploussard “Les Parelles” 2020, Arbois, Jura, France ($21.80 – 12549164)
Are you hesitating between Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsault, Fratoto or even Grenache Noir from sandy soils? This ploussard will know how to carve out a little place in your heart because of its lightened color, its teasing aromas of spices and small wild strawberries “sweating” under a July sun, but above all because its texture in the mouth is of most sensual ever! A supple, light, cheerful and stimulating red that doesn’t wait for the week of 4 Thursdays to have healthy fun with you. Serve chilled on a piece of not too aged Comté cheese. (5) ***
Carobbio 2017, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy ($25.45 – 13694486)
At the top of its form, this pure Sangiovese hesitates between cherry and bay leaf, between a fun escapade and a walk in the undergrowth. Nice blend of tannins opening onto a seductive aromatic framework, with freshness and perfect balance, without being too concentrated. Not bad on the involtini of calf. (5) ***
Le loup blanc “orange” 2021, Vin de France, France ($29.30 – 15124794)
This very dry organic orange wine sees the big picture and thinks big, especially this “wide” Mediterranean where the scents of muscat join those emanating from the island of Pantelleria, where his brother Zibibbo takes it easy. An expressive wine, highly aromatic without being cloying, executed with skill and know-how. I’ll let you find his or her culinary partner(s). For my part, a treat as an aperitif. (5) ***
Chardonnay 2022, La Crema, Monterey, California ($29.95 – 11368821)
Do we unblock or do we not unblock? I place myself here in the shoes of the famous French gastronomic critic François Simon when the time comes for the bill. Successful experience or not? As a wine critic, I remain doubtful here. Although this type of chardonnay is not my cup of tea, I must agree that it is still unifying, and therefore will find a favorable reception on many palates. Technically, this dry white is impeccable. Fruity vanilla peach juice to spare, ample and soft texture, low acidity; we can even talk about length in the mouth. Is it enough at this price? Additional depth, a more precise idea of terroir would have been welcome here, but I bet that the fettuccine with white sauce, mushrooms and chicken would be praised without hesitation by the French critic as to the proposed marriage. (5) ***
Château du Moulin-À-Vent 2020, Beaujolais, France ($31.25 – 14558030)
Could you distinguish a Chénas from a Moulin-À-Vent which “eats away” some beautiful plots of the latter? History teaches us that in 1924, the Moulin-À-Vent cru had absorbed some of the best terroirs of the neighboring Chénas, according to the author Jon Bonné. That being said, similarities are evident. The Gamay is rich and rich in texture and is capable of aging for a long time in glass. The one we are dealing with has presence, grain, good balance and a length worthy of mention. A beautiful bottle to serve with your beef bourguignon (or beaujolais depending on trends). (5) © ***
Gewurztraminer Grand Cru “Furstenteum” 2020, Meyer-Fonné, Alsace, France ($49.50 – 14957698)
Gewurztraminer is a subtle invader. He penetrates you through all the senses, playing with charm but above all with complexity, with a sense of rhythm which is his own, that is to say with a languor which would not have displeased the French romantic poets of the 19th century.e century. The Meyer-Fontaines lengthen the sauce with this soft, round and deep vintage whose candied citrus fruits and spices elevate and prolong the finish. If it is sipped alone at tea time, it still remains a pest served very cold on a munster with caraway seeds, just to remake the world which really needs it through the “sleeping pond”. (5+) © ***1/2
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