The future of venerable Quebec culinary institutions could go through their acquisition by large companies, if we are to believe the CEO of the Grandio Group. Jean Bédard gave an interview to the Duty as part of the reopening of the legendary Moishes steakhouse in Montreal, founded in 1938.
Lenny Lighter, the founder’s son, had approached Grandio and sold the establishment in 2018, because he had no successors in his family. It is therefore a brand new restaurant which will open its doors on Wednesday.
At the entrance, red brick recalls that of the original location, on Saint-Laurent Street. In the lobby, black-and-white artwork by Jason Wasserman depicts iconic Main and Moishes people, places, and moments from the 1940s through today. Baseball player Jackie Robinson, cabaret dancer Lili St-Cyr and players from the Montreal Canadiens are among those represented. A symbolic scene is also depicted: the card game during which Moishe Lighter won the restaurant.
Through the large windows, however, you can’t see the boulevard where the Mural festival is currently taking place, but rather Square Victoria. Jean Bédard wanted the restaurant to move downtown. According to him, the clientele, in particular the tourists who will soon be massing for the Grand Prix, are no longer on Saint-Laurent Boulevard.
“When you open a restaurant, you want to be in the center of the action, you try to have the best place possible. When we saw that we could come here, that motivated us to buy,” reports the businessman, who has more than 4,000 employees in 59 restaurants, including the La Cage, Cochon Dingue and Brasseurs du Monde banners.
Renowned restaurants that are disappearing
Several Montreal culinary institutions have gone out of business in recent years, particularly in Saint-Laurent, such as the Main Deli and Charcuterie Fairmount. The old premises of Moishes is still empty.
“We have lost beautiful restaurants, beautiful brands. And many well-known restaurateurs approach us because they are exhausted, because everything is more complicated, because they are no longer tempted. They have difficulty with the workforce, with the supply,” says Mr. Bédard.
The latter has taken the offer seriously with Moishes and does not rule out doing so with other reputable restaurants. “Our primary mission is to take Quebec brands that have value and bring them into the future,” he explains. It is in the same spirit that he acquired the fifty-year-old Gibby’s, in Old Montreal.
At the Association Restauration Québec, we recognize that many restaurateurs are at their wit’s end. Martin Vézina, vice-president of public affairs, is delighted to see Grandio “save this brand, which is significant for Montreal”.
It must be said that the restaurant almost did not come back to life. It was supposed to be inaugurated in November 2020, but the pandemic has put the plans in jeopardy. The redevelopment cost $5 million, one million more than originally planned. Mr. Bédard is happy that the project is finally taking shape. “Moishes needs Montreal and Montreal needs Moishes,” he believes.
The same DNA
He assures that the genetic code of the brand – known for its quality meat, its Monte Carlo potatoes, its coleslaw and its pickles – is present in its dishes and its products marketed in grocery stores. Same story from the new chef, Murteza Talu, formerly of the Syrian restaurant Damas.
“We keep the same classics. My role is to make sure these dishes are made the same way and taste the same as they did 20 years ago,” he says, adding that he has consulted with former kitchen workers at Moishes . He added new dishes and renewed the famous minced liver starter by adding foie gras.
The decor has also been carefully thought out by interior designer Patty Xenos to maintain the warm appearance of the place and recall the origins of the restaurant. It was the latter who carried out the renovation of Moishes in collaboration with Lenny Lighter in 2011. At the entrance is also exhibited one of the first menus, where we can read that a rib of beef could be tasted for $3.75. Today, it’s more like around $120 that you’ll have to pay, accompaniments not included.
Will customers be convinced by this Moishes 2.0? Bill Johnston, a 69-year-old former customer who met in front of the boarded up location on Saint-Laurent Street, has every intention of going to test it for a special occasion, or regularly “if he wins the lottery”. “This is where you can eat the best meat,” he commented, with a smile on his face. It’s wonderful that we can preserve this Montreal tradition. »