This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
On land and sea, Key West and the Florida Keys offer another face of the sunshine state. Off the southern tip, this string of islands stretches out to the rhythm of walks, bike rides or boat trips.
On this Thursday in January, the crowd is getting denser and denser in Mallory Square. In less than an hour, the sun will bow out. Street entertainers rub shoulders with musicians and itinerant vendors. Vacationers walk around with a cocktail, beer or ice cream in hand, trying to find the best view of the port.
As soon as the orange tones are diluted in the gulf, the spectators disperse. Restaurant terraces fill up and boats return to port. “The sunsets are beautiful from everywhere in Key West,” slips a passerby. We can only agree with him. In Mallory Square, the Sunset Celebration looks like a carnival.
Closer to Cuba than Miami, Key West has been attracting artists for decades. The house where Ernest Hemingway lived in the 1930s is one of the must-sees, if only for all the tasty anecdotes told by the guides. But if the author ofTo have or not (To Have and Have Not) is most often cited among those who have anchored there, he is far from the only writer to have succumbed to the atmosphere of the city. Just take one of Key West Literary Seminar’s walking tours to see that Tennessee Williams, Shel Silverstein, Elizabeth Bishop and Robert Frost come to light as you walk.
pigeon island
The history of the archipelago is intimately linked to the development of the railway. From 1912, it was possible to reach the city by rail thanks to the determination of businessman Henry Flager. “When he announced that he wanted to develop the rails to Key West, people called him crazy,” says Jennifer Powell, a guide at Pigeon Key, where the workers were staying during the construction of the railroad. He was over 70 years old. »
Falling under the spell of Florida after going there on the recommendation of his first wife’s doctor — he had three — the New Yorker had the Ponce de León hotel built in 1888, the first of a series of luxury establishments on the east coast. For holidaymakers to be able to stay there, they had to be able to get there… “The construction of 42 bridges was necessary”, underlines the guide.
Today accessible to visitors, Pigeon Key, baptized Cayo Paloma (“Pigeon Islet”) by the Spaniards in the 1500s, bears witness to this pivotal period. A small museum traces the history of the construction of the railway and the families who lived on the island. Henry Flager ended up investing his own money in this titanic project. “He was able to take the train in 1912, when he was 82 years old, says Jennifer Powell. He died 16 months later. »
Destroyed by a hurricane in 1935, the railroad was never rebuilt. In 1938, it gave way to the Overseas Highway. While the “new” Seven Mile Bridge spans the sea for 11 kilometers, part of the old bridge has been accessible to pedestrians, runners and cyclists since 2022. the town of Marathon, it is possible to rent bicycles — and even tricycles — at Bike Marathon Bike Rentals.
On the outward or return journey, a stop at The Turtle Hospital is a must. Since 1986, the veterinary hospital has been helping sea turtles. Its motto : ” Rescue, rehab, release (“Save, Heal, Release”). The education component is also very important. About fifteen guided tours per day are offered at a cost of US$30 (CA$40). The problems most often treated? Tumors. “We are also trying to create a blood bank and we are conducting studies on chemotherapy,” explains Bette Zirkelbach, director of the hospital.
From kayak to yacht
To fully experience the Keys, nothing beats exploring them like its first visitors: by sea. On the Big Pine Key side, Captain Bill Keogh offers kayaking and sailing adventures, among other things. As patient as he is passionate, he knows how to adapt to his clients, like on this windy day when our little group preferred not to venture too far.
We couldn’t think of a better way to end this trip than with a sea trip with Bluesail Yachting at the end of the day from Key West. After a few hours of peaceful sailing, somewhere between the ceviche and the cheese and charcuterie platter, the horizon caught fire.
Yes, the sunsets are beautiful from anywhere in Key West.
Who makes the best key lime pie?
Our reporter was a guest on The Florida Keys & Key West.
This special content was produced by the Special Publications team of the Duty, relating to marketing. The drafting of Duty did not take part.