Become a pro! | Install ceramic

With the explosion in the cost of materials and the shortage of labour, it is time more than ever to reclaim some maintenance or renovation work on your home. Become a pro and take action with tasks anyone can do.

Project

Getting into ceramic work at home is not an easy task, but well prepared, it is possible. If you’ve been thinking about it for a long time, it’s a sign that it’s time to get started.

In the first place

There are different types of tiles: sandstone ceramic, natural materials such as marble, glass tiles or porcelain. It is the choice of tile that will guide you for the type of blade or wheel.

Planning is the key to success! Calculate the surface to be tiled and make a laying plan so that the result is aesthetic, with as few cuts as possible.

Usually, the counter is in place and the ceramic is placed on top, leaving a space of approximately 1/4 inch which will be filled by the silicone bead.

In this case, the counter is not yet installed. A stick of the same thickness is positioned to start the project well. Always use a level before you begin to check that everything is straight.

Carefully measure the area to be tiled. Opt for an addition of 10% more.

The first row should be perfectly straight. This is the basis for a successful installation.

Mix the glue according to the technical data sheet. “Lightweight” mortar is the best option for wall installations.

How to do it

1. Make a leveling guide line to install the first row perfectly straight.

Pro tip: If you have a laser level, leave it in place. Otherwise, make a line dark enough to identify it clearly.

2. Evaluate, according to your installation plan, the best starting option (center, left side, right side). Make reference marks on the wall to help you. Try laying flat without glue just to see better.

3. Apply mortar to small areas of installation. The goal is to fix the tile before the cement glue dries. It creates a small filmstrip, so estimate your execution time. If the glued area has dried, scrape it off, otherwise the tile will not hold, then apply at the laying rate.

4. Place a first tile then continue, and so on. Revalidate the level and make sure to leave space for the grout (spacers, spacer, etc.). It is best to check often during the installation of the first row to make sure you start the project level. During assembly, make sure to put the same pressure on each tile. Also check that they are all equal (no corners sticking out and level).

5. Make cuts when necessary. Check and adjust before installing your tile. To help, if the area is tight, apply the mortar behind the tile, then place it on the wall. Wait until the mortar is completely dry before applying the grout. Fast setting four to six hours, otherwise six to eight hours.

6. Mix the grout according to the technical data sheet. With the grout applicator, place it between the joints. Be sure to fill them out correctly. Perform frequent visual checks. The applicator is used slightly wet, have a boiler of water nearby. Let the grout dry for the time recommended on the technical data sheet.

7. Using a damp sponge (wrung very well), clean the grout. The goal is to find the straight and clear line of the tile. Do not hesitate to press hard enough.

A little further

The installation of the ceramic tiles on the floor remains partly the same. It is important that the subfloor be well installed in order to limit mechanical movements of shrinkage or expansion so that your installation is solid and durable (space of approximately 1/8 inch between the sheets of plywood). The subfloor must be well prepared according to the type of tile. You can also use an uncoupling membrane.

The laying surface must be level, flat and clean.

High-polymer thin-set mortar provides maximum bond.