Restaurant review | Darna: cooking from the heart

Through the good shots and, sometimes, the not so good, our restaurant critics tell you about their experience, introduce the team in the dining room and in the kitchen, while explaining what motivated the choice of the restaurant. This week: Darna Bistroquet.

Iris Gagnon Paradise
The Press

Why talk about it?

With the health restrictions behind us, it is possible to enjoy the indoor experience as before. Darna Bistroquet, a warm little address in the Rosemont district where North African cuisine and locavore philosophy go hand in hand, waited for the disappearance of plexiglass and physical distancing to welcome customers again as it should be: like at home. The Darna has reinvented itself again and again during the pandemic, multiplying the concepts, but nothing beats the original formula! I wanted to introduce you to this place where the love of cooking (and catering) is always on the menu.

Who are they ?

Originally from Morocco, Otman Amer has been living with his accomplice Selma Laroussi in Montreal for several years. The couple adopted the Rosemont neighborhood, where they live with their two children. Otman, who has over two decades of catering experience behind the tie, fulfilled a dream by opening his place to him. Selma, landscape architect, signs the pretty decor with warm and inviting colors. The sister of the latter, Leïla Laroussi, is also a partner. On site, Otman is surrounded by a tight-knit team. In the kitchen, chef Méline Besson is supported by Maude Lalague, and Rida Aït manages the room. Herold Morne gets his hands dirty as a dishwasher and cook’s assistant, but above all as a “guardian angel”, specifies the owner, who describes himself as the “handyman” of the place. We would rather say that he is the heart, and the soul, of the Darna.

Our experience

“Darna” means “our house” in Moroccan and Otman Amer is the host of this warm abode and makes you really feel at home here. He welcomes us, my friends and me, with obvious joy. He is happy to finally find his customers. We can feel how much he missed this contact… and so do we!

We sit on the cushioned bench at the back of the restaurant. A comfortable cocoon where we will see, with stars in our eyes, a number of small dishes, each more delectable than the other. Why choose ? We let Otman dictate the pace of the evening.

Moroccan and North African cuisine is in the spotlight here, but it is modern, local and seasonal, while remaining fiercely authentic in the flavors it offers. The menu is made up of small and larger more hearty dishes; a few plates of meat, seafood, and above all a lot of vegetables. All the products used come from local farms and small producers. The freshness is therefore at the rendezvous.

As an aperitif, dip the sensational Rghaief bread — flatbread flavored with roasted cumin seeds — still warm in a hearty homemade hummus sprinkled with Aleppo pepper, bite into juicy and irresistible marinated Moroccan olives, and feasts on kofta balls placed on a tahini sauce. This starts the meal off nicely.

The cucumber salad with homemade cream cheese, mint and fresh oregano is a nice side dish, simple and very fresh, but our hearts capsize for the halloumi starter and grilled nectarines — the fleshy fruits, canned by the good care of ‘Otman last summer, taste the sun (they are replaced these days with grilled watermelon). The whole is accompanied by nigella seeds, a traditional Moroccan ingredient often used in tajines and couscous, and is topped with Darna sauce, made with sour cream, homemade candied lemon and honey.

The evening continues, and the wonder too. The lamb tartare from the Eastern Townships affirms its strong personality, flavored with kofta spices. A bold choice that turned out to be a winner: it’s one of the best tartares I’ve tasted recently! The heirloom tomato salad, in season, is spiced up with a wild garlic vinaigrette, and goes well with lamb chops, tasty, perfectly cooked, accompanied by morels. And what about the whole roasted fennel, which you rarely see prepared like this here, served with brown butter and mint gremolata! The bulb is elevated to other skies.

Our bellies being well filled, we did not taste the desserts. That night, lemon and olive oil cake with whipped labneh and rhubarb pannacotta was on the menu, but the menu changes often, depending on seasonal fruit. This is only a postponement !

In our glass

Cocktails with Mediterranean influences — fig margarita, gin “fizz” with pistachio syrup and rose water, Darna mojito (with mint tea syrup and ginger beer) — set the tone. A fine selection of non-alcoholic creations is also available. As for the wines, the same philosophy as in the kitchen prevails: cuvées from small producers, organic juices and a large number of choices by the glass. We happily tasted a glass of Moussamoussettes, a natural sparkling rosé with a taste of summer, and Les Terres promises, an excellent thirst-quenching red from the Domaine Terres promises.

Price

The owners want their neighborhood restaurant to remain affordable. It is possible to eat without breaking the bank at Darna. The aperitif menu (normally offered only on the terrace) offers small bites from $3 to $7; dishes, from $12 to $19. On Fridays only, a semolina couscous with seasonal meat, to share, is $26. Desserts are $14. In these times when inflation is rising, it is more than appreciated!

Good to know

Vegetarians and even vegans can find what they are looking for here. The Darna is easily accessible to people with reduced mobility.

Information

Darna Bistroquet is open Wednesday to Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.

1106 Beaubien Street East, Montreal