Another era, other customs. At the beginning of the XVIe century, the vineyards of the Negrar, Fumane and Marano valleys, located north of the pretty town of Verona in Italy, were already delivering the withered berries used to make a rich, robust and heady red wine. It is possible to think that this one then acted as a powerful love potion to the many conquests of a certain Giacomo Casanova who was to be born two centuries later. If the Amarone della Valpolicella then saw the light of day, it was not for all that a caress on the palate. Sweet, heavy, heady, bitter, rough and rich in volatile acidity, it certainly did not display the courteous manners of the famous Venetian killer. The heavyweight has since become highly civilized.
It was not until the middle of the twentiethe century, with Professor Giovanni Dalmasso (who already suggested planting at altitude), but above all the contemporary oenologist Roberto Ferrarini (advisor to Quintarelli, Tedeschi, Allegrini, Brigaldara and others) to adjust even more finely the shimmering livery of the great local lord . A tasting in the company of Antonio Cesari, son of Stefano who consolidated the historic vineyard of Brigaldara at the beginning of the 1980s, allowed this week to measure the progress made, but especially the style operated on the simple Valpolicella and Valpolicella Ripasso, and on the ‘Amarone della Valpolicella, a light heavyweight certainly (16.5% alc./vol. All the same!), But provided with an unusual radiance, harmony and digestibility.
Here it is essentially the corvina and corvinone grape varieties that adjust, focus and dress the classic valpolicella just like the “Ripasso” type (addition of unpressed must of amarone or lightly raisined grapes to revive the end of fermentation while improving on the wine. plan of alcohol and structure the simple valpolicella), or the majestic Amarone resulting from a methodical desiccation of the berries in a well ventilated context. We are here light years from the oxidative character generated by botrytis in musts which was in effect in the early 1990s! In short, all the best of tradition delivered here within an “inspired” modernity where expertise meets sensitivity, elegance and a well-defined house style. The class what. Very reasonable in terms of price, the wines find buyers quickly (to watch out for). As for the table, sumptuous and plural pleasures (osso-buco, parmigiano reggiano, truffle risotto etc.). Some words…
Valpolicella Classico 2020 ($ 18.85 – 14320523 – coming soon). Pure fruity delicacy declined with lightness, frivolity, tone and such a high index of “crunchiness” that one nibbles the tongue. (5) ★★ 1/2
Valpolicella Ripasso 2018 ($ 22.10 – 14477977 – coming soon). A pure wonder! At such a reasonable price that we cannot give up here! Medium color and broad autumn bouquet, faded flowers and an ascending spicy tip, all lined with a bitterness (cherry stone) which lengthens and glorifies the finish. A jewel. (5) ★★★ 1/2
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2016, ($ 56.75 – 12950433). Lovers of braised big game or smoked meat finely sliced, here is the candidate who will make them play on mutual rivalry to sit at the same table. Spiritual with its insistent bouquet, with notes of kirsch eau-de-vie, at the same time precise, heady and bewitching by its depth, this dry, full-bodied red, fine in texture and of extraordinary vitality unrolls the carpet in the mouth. of the dream. (10+) © ★★★★
Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie 2015 ($ 73.25 – 13057647). This altitude vineyard (500 meters) delivers here a performance that only the great zinfandels of Turley or Martinelli can envision. But with, once again, this exceptional vitality that still escapes these Californian lords. Masterful of precision, powerful breath, in the nose as in the mouth, of a fruity and spicy confidence which sweeps the standards and enlarges the universe of the senses. But it is above all the overall harmony that thwarts the forecasts, raising this racy red to the level of a grand cru. Nothing less. (10+) © ★★★★★