This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
Wineries on the Niagara Peninsula manage to make wines that rival the world’s biggest names, thanks in part to their proximity to Lake Ontario. This body of water moderates extreme temperatures and plays a crucial role in the viability of vines and the production of quality wines. However, the region’s weather realities remain a challenge for wine growers, especially in the context of climate change.
Favorable natural factors
With its 5,500 hectares of vines, the Niagara Peninsula is Ontario’s most productive wine region. Its climate is unique: the Niagara Escarpment, a limestone cliff that crosses the peninsula, traps the air coming from the lake and returns it above the vineyards and, thanks to this moderating effect, promotes the ripening of the grapes. Microclimates vary depending on the distance of the vineyards from the lake and the altitude of those on the escarpment plateau compared to those on the plains. Added to this is a diverse geology, giving rise to ten sub-appellations, each distinguished by unique profiles.
Despite these natural factors favorable to the ripening of the fruit, harsh winters can lead to winter frosts and mortality of the vines, while spring frosts, hail, humidity and extreme heat during the summer remain annual risks.
A checkered weather forecast
Furthermore, climate chaos accentuates erratic weather events, making viticulture even more complex. Jim Willwerth, assistant professor in the Department of Biological Sciences at Brock University and researcher at the Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI), cites the example of Niagara-on-the-Lake. He explains that average temperatures over the past 14 years have not increased significantly, even though seasons are generally longer. On the other hand, we observe marked contrasts between very hot vintages and others that are cooler.
This variability also concerns precipitation: although the annual total remains relatively stable, showers have become more intense. Violent storms cause significant damage, with repercussions that vary depending on when they occur in the growing cycle. Heavy rain can, among other things, cause grape berries to burst, promote fungal diseases and thus reduce yields.
Looking for a solution
Several strategies have been put in place to fight climate change, such as investing in wind towers. These systems circulate the air, preventing cold air from stagnating near the buds, thus helping to combat the increased risks of spring frosts. Adaptation also depends on the choice of grape varieties. Although the Niagara Peninsula continues to favor flagship grape varieties such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling and Cabernet Franc, other options are being explored to limit crop losses. Debra Inglis, director of CCOVI and professor in the Department of Biological Sciences at Brock University, emphasizes the importance of studying hybrid grape varieties recently created in Europe that are resistant to fungal diseases or water stress.
In addition, milder temperatures in winter, followed by extreme cold spells below -10°C, are also problematic, as vines have little time to develop cold resistance, which can lead to their mortality. It is therefore preferable to favor grape varieties that are less sensitive to cold, such as Riesling or Marquette, rather than more vulnerable varieties, such as Merlot.
Finally, like everywhere else, the increase in diseases and harmful insects is felt. Research, prophylaxis and integrated pest management are crucial to finding sustainable solutions that limit or, at best, avoid the use of chemical treatments.
Despite the challenges, Ontario continues to delight our taste buds year after year. If the trend continues, the 2024 vintage should give birth to great wines. On the other hand, things are more complicated for winegrowers in British Columbia, a subject which will be covered in the next post.
Below are three beautiful vintages to discover the talent of your neighbors.
Bachelder Parfum Pinot Noir 2021, Niagara Peninsula VQA
We recognize the skill of the talented Thomas Bachelder with his chiseled profile and expressive nose marked by aromas of morello cherry and peony alongside notes of undergrowth. Very light with lively but integrated acidity and fine, elegant tannins. A pretty pinot reminiscent of the scent of Burgundy. Highly recommended with a piece of grilled salmon. $28.10 — SAQ code 14559551
Stratus Vineyards Charles Baker Riesling 2019, Vinemount Ridge VQA
Sustainable development is at the heart of this estate, which was the first Canadian vineyard to obtain LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certification in 2005. This delicate Riesling is reminiscent of wines from the Moselle region of Germany. The palate opens with juicy, concentrated notes of white peach, lemon and lime zest and the residual sugar (15 g/L) is brilliantly balanced by the biting acidity. A delight for the taste buds and perfect to accompany spicy Thai and Indian dishes. $39.25 — SAQ code 12718482
Hidden Bench Pinot Noir 2021, Beamsville Bench VQA
Since the founding of the estate, Harald Thiel has strived to limit his environmental footprint: he generates his own electricity with 135 solar panels, uses geothermal energy, favors organic viticulture, does not irrigate… And this Pinot impresses just as much as its practices virtuous. A beguiling fragrance with generous notes of wild strawberry and red cherry that mingle with a hint of vanilla and dead leaf that add depth and complexity. The palate is enveloping, offering a nice contrast between the maturity of the fruit and the juicy acidity; all framed by silky tannins. A call for game and morels. $39.75 — SAQ code 12582984
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