This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
After Vancouver and Toronto in 2022, all of Quebec will be entering the renowned Michelin Guide in the spring of 2025. Between rejoicing and reluctance, could this really serve as a showcase for La Belle Province internationally?
The Michelin Guide was created in 1900 in France by brothers André and Édouard Michelin, founders of the tires of the same name eleven years earlier. Their initial idea was to design a booklet of good addresses to encourage the French to take to the road on holiday and, consequently, to buy tires.
It quickly became a culinary reference. In 1904, an edition of the Guide appeared in Belgium. Germany, Spain and Portugal joined in 1910. Then, in 1933, the role of inspector was introduced. Anonymously, they traveled across Europe each year to determine which establishments they considered deserved one, two or three stars. However, it was not until 2005 that the Michelin Guide left Europe and arrived in New York. It is now present in 46 countries. “The Michelin Guide has had Quebec in its sights for a long time,” explains Geneviève Cantin, President and CEO of the Alliance de l’industrie touristique du Québec (AITQ), whose mission is, among other things, to promote Quebec outside the province.
Wind of change
Given the Michelin Guide’s reputation around the world, the AITQ and its partners, such as Tourisme Montréal and Destination Québec Cité, have signed a three-year agreement to promote and market the Michelin Guide in the region. “Speculative figures are currently circulating in some media, but our agreement with Michelin includes a clear clause on the confidentiality of the amounts earmarked for this joint promotion and marketing partnership,” explains Flore Bouchon, Manager of Communications and Public Affairs at the AITQ.
Before investing in a marketing strategy, the AITQ consulted the people concerned, particularly restaurateurs. “At the annual general meeting of La Table ronde [un collectif regroupant 168 restaurants gastronomiques indépendants provenant de 37 villes au Québec]64% of the members present voted for the Guide to come.
In the fray, the chef and co-owner of Toqué!, Normand Laprise, is now open to the idea of seeing the Michelin Guide arrive in Quebec rather than Montreal or the national capital alone. “Before, in Europe, I only saw the ostentatious side of the big houses, in the era of white gloves,” he confides. “If they evaluated us according to European criteria, it wouldn’t work.” In his opinion, if there is one thing in common between the restaurants here, small and large, it is conviviality. “We were born with that, it’s part of our essence,” he adds.
In recent years, the Michelin Guide has evolved and broadened its vision of gastronomy. Since 1997, the Bib Gourmand recognition has appeared, which recognizes good places offering excellent value for money. In 2018, when the Guide made its debut in Thailand, the tiny restaurant of the queen of crab omelettes in Bangkok, Jay Fai, received a star. More recently, in the first edition of the Michelin Guide in Mexico released last fall, Taquería El Califa de León, a taco counter in Mexico City, also earned a star. We are a long way from white tablecloths and much closer to the local culinary culture, to the delight of travelers who like to flit from one star to another.
Shine, yes, but not at any price
Beyond the stars, a reference like the Michelin Guide is good news, according to various players in the tourism industry. Geneviève Cantin points out that tourism, including gourmet tourism, is an important lever for the Quebec government. “It’s not an expense, it’s a source of income, of new money,” she emphasizes. “Every dollar invested generates considerable economic benefits.” According to data from the Ministry of Tourism, foreign currency inflows from this sector in 2022 amounted to $2.5 billion. “Our target markets outside Canada are the northeastern United States and France, which are already very familiar with the Michelin Guide,” she says.
Clarah Germain, director of guest experience at Germain Hotels, which has seven establishments in Quebec, also believes in the beneficial effects of the guide for the tourism industry. “To promote Quebec on the international scene, and for tourism in general, it’s a very good tool.” However, she fears the pressure it could put on chefs in absolute search of stars. “As my husband says [Matthew Swift, chef du restaurant terre-neuvien Terre, à St. John’s]we must not forget that we host dinners as a profession, she adds. The Michelin Guide must not take away from us the pleasure of cooking and welcoming our customers with joy.
Recently visiting the Champlain at the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac for a gourmet meal presented by La Vie agricole, French chef Marc Veyrat remains bitter about the Michelin Guide. “I hope you [les chefs] will receive all of them [des étoiles]because you are admirable, and you deserve it. But you are going to be scammed without realizing it.
Triple-starred on three occasions, when his restaurant La Maison des Bois in Manigod, in Haute-Savoie, lost a star in 2019, he had a hard time accepting it. Believing that he was the victim of an error of judgment by the inspectors during their evaluation, he even took the Michelin Guide to court. But he lost his case and has refused to be part of the Guide since.
To preserve the unique character of Quebec gastronomy, and the mental health of the teams, Normand Laprise advocates authenticity. “I will not change my restaurant to please Michelin,” he says. “We will continue to do what we have been doing with passion for nearly 32 years.” However, he is aware of the effect this can have on other restaurateurs, particularly younger ones.
Star or not, Quebec gastronomy is extraordinary, and it already shines what we do best: welcoming with joy. Let’s not forget that.
This content was produced by the Special Publications Team of Dutyrelevant to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part in it.