American grapes to help Okanagan vineyards?

The Okanagan Valley will produce almost no wine in 2024. An unprecedented frost killed most of the buds over the winter. To make up for the losses, some producers are considering using American grapes to make their wines. But the idea is far from unanimous.

In his office at Osoyoos Larose Vineyard, Michael Kullmann sees the United States less than 10 kilometres away. Unlike winemakers across the border, the winemaker will have nothing in his tanks this year.

“I lost 100% of my harvest,” he says.

The producer of the famous vineyard is not the only one. The mercury has been close to -25 ^oC for several hours in mid-January. This temperature is well below the tolerance threshold of vines of the species Vitis viniferawhich killed most of the buds and the hope of a harvest in the fall.

According to the specialist firm Cascadia, between 97 and 99% of the valley’s grapes will simply not grow in 2024.

In the northern part of the valley, near Kelowna, the vines of the Martin’s Lane estate suffered the same fate. But the estate, known for its great Rieslings and Pinot Noirs, will still produce wine this year: it will vinify American grapes.

“We’ll be buying fruit from Oregon to make up for the fact that we won’t have grapes in 2024,” winemaker Shane Munn writes. “It’s a fun challenge for us, but also for our customers. They’ll be tasting wines that we make, but with fruit from somewhere else.”

Martin’s Lane has a commercial permit. This type of permit already allows its holder to buy grapes and wine outside the province and then market the products under its name. These vintages made with foreign grapes are subject to strict rules, but more importantly, they prevent its producer from obtaining the commercial advantages offered to local products. In addition, these vintages are heavily taxed. For example, Martin’s Lane will have to pay a tax of a minimum value of 89% on the sale of these bottles.

Martin’s Lane isn’t the only winery looking to make foreign grapes. A group of wineries has asked the B.C. government to reduce or waive the tax for a year or two. The winemakers are asking that the reprieve also apply to wineries with a “land vineyard” permit (Land Based Winery). At the time of writing, the government’s decision was still pending.

Divergent opinions

Sébastien Laurent Hotte has been working at Lightning Rock Vineyard since 2022. Like other Okanagan winemakers, he expects his next harvest to be anecdotal. The Quebec native studied viticulture in Washington State. He knows many winemakers willing to sell him grapes. However, he is not convinced that producing wine with foreign grapes is the best strategy.

“It’s a real dilemma,” he said. “If we don’t have products to sell, we don’t have money coming in. But on the other hand, what would we say about French producers who would go and buy grapes in Spain?”

At the Vieux Pin vineyard, the vines were also affected by the frost. And as at Lightning Rock, winemaker Severine Pinte is wondering.

“We decided not to buy grapes because the tax is too high,” she says. “If it’s challenged, I don’t know. I think we’d rather stay 100% British Columbia.”

At Osoyoos Larose Winery, Michael Kullmann agrees. He worries that consumers won’t be able to tell the difference between Okanagan wine and American wine made in Canada.

But that argument convinced Poplar Grove Vineyard owner Chris Holler to the contrary. He’ll be making wine in the fall with Washington State grapes to keep his employees employed.

“We saw it in the restaurant industry during the pandemic. People leave and don’t come back. If I want to keep my team, I have to produce wine,” he says.

Hybrids to the rescue?

Just outside Kelowna, Quails’ Gate will have more grapes in its tanks than its neighbours. The vineyard has one of the few hybrid plots in the province and its old Maréchal Foch vines have withstood the frost.

That realization has inspired some winemakers in the province to replant hybrids. Almost all of those vines were pulled out starting in the late 1980s in favor of growing European varieties. According to the 2022 harvest report, less than 3% of B.C.’s vines are hybrids. But that percentage is likely to increase.

The proof is that the Ursa Major estate planted one hectare of Marquette and Seyval Blanc after the January frost. Its producer will also plant Frontenac Gris next year. And he is not the only one. Several winemakers like Severine Pinte, at the Vieux Pin vineyard, are thinking about replanting hybrids.

“It needs to be studied so that we don’t put all our eggs in one basket,” she says.

The winemaker also plans to draw inspiration from winemaking techniques used in Quebec, such as earthing up vines in winter and applying geotextile. She hopes to protect certain plots from frost and save Okanagan production.

Drinking from the Okanagan

Brilliant Merlot

The family-owned Burrowing Owl Estate is based in Oliver, South Okanagan. They created the Calliope brand a few years ago to market wines made with grapes from other vineyards in the valley. This 2020 Figure 8 blend is mostly Merlot. It’s bright with dark fruit on the palate. A nine-month stint in French oak adds a subtle hint of spice on the finish. Absolutely delicious! Brand ambassador Steven Newmann says it’s too early to tell if the company will buy grapes from the U.S. in the fall. However, he says the estate will do a small harvest.

Calliope Figure 8 Cabernet Merlot 2020 (12456267), $27.95

Consult the SAQ file

An iconic wine

Osoyoos Larose winemaker Michael Kullmann says that while the quantities of wine produced are small and the costs of selling at the SAQ are higher than elsewhere, Quebec has a unique relationship with the vineyard. So much so that “Quebecers will have bottles,” he says. It’s time to stock up on this magnificent 2019 vintage. This estate created by the French group Taillant is inspired by the great wines of Bordeaux in both the blend of grapes and the style. The garnet color betrays a subtle evolution. The aromas of cinnamon, plum and herbs are inviting. On the palate, the tannins are very fine and give way to black fruits and sweet spices.

Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin Okanagan Valley 2019 (10293169), $59.75

Consult the SAQ file