“We like to cook together. Before having our restaurant, we often entertained at home,” declares Laurence Théberge, one half of the new Claire Jacques restaurant. This feeling of arriving at the home of friends is precisely what the couple of friendly owners, newly installed at the corner of Saint-Denis and Jarry streets, are aiming for.
The other half of the very small team, Philippe Guilbault, is more into service and sommelier work. But in his free time, he helps his sweetheart in the kitchen. Formerly the production space of the late Dinette nationale, the kitchen is almost as big as the dining room, which is a very good size, even if the duo limits the number of seats to about twenty. For now, the owners want to run the house as a twosome, a bit like Patrice Demers and Marie-Josée Beaudoin of Sabayon.
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PHOTO FRANÇOIS ROY, THE PRESS
In a desire to reduce waste, Laurence makes a radish top pesto which is integrated into the whipped ricotta.
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PHOTO FRANÇOIS ROY, THE PRESS
Here is a particularly surprising strawberry tart (cooked and raw), with its lovage cream on the side.
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PHOTO FRANÇOIS ROY, THE PRESS
This sea buckthorn amaretto sour is a successful creation by Philippe.
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PHOTO FRANÇOIS ROY, THE PRESS
The wines are all artisanal.
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The star pastry chef and sommelier played an important role in Laurence’s life. The one that now flies with its own wings opened and then closed Patrice Pâtissier, in Little Burgundy. She started in the dining room and then moved to the kitchen. Eight years of loyal service.
But Claire and Jacques are probably the ones who left the biggest mark on the young woman. They are her maternal grandparents, who loved to gather people around the table. “Claire showed me how to bake my first cakes, biscuits, etc., and Jacques taught me history and curiosity, among other things,” says the chef to follow. There are also old-fashioned elements in the decor that succeed (almost!) in making you forget that the room is a large rectangle lacking divisions.
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PHOTO FRANÇOIS ROY, THE PRESS
The pretty pink counter of Dinette nationale has been preserved, but the rest of the space has been well transformed.
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PHOTO FRANÇOIS ROY, THE PRESS
Tables for two or four, armchairs for one… the space has been designed for everyone.
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PHOTO FRANÇOIS ROY, THE PRESS
Laurence Théberge and Philippe Guilbault are Claire Jacques!
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The culinary personality that Laurence has developed over time is resolutely hybrid, sweet and savory, often on the same plate. For example, lovage coexists with strawberry tart in a seasonal dessert. A blackcurrant vinegar mousse accompanies asparagus sprinkled with savory granola. Sea buckthorn and nduja (a spicy spreadable charcuterie) pair with tomatoes in another dish.
The “to share” formula is favored here, even when it comes to “snacks” (gougères, nuts, mini-frozen sandwiches). The schedule – opening from 2 p.m. from Wednesday to Saturday – favors afternoon snacks and aperitifs, whether the latter is a pre-meal or dinner.
Claire Jacques wants to attract as diverse a neighborhood clientele as possible. Single people also have two pretty little quiet reading corners. Strollers have space to park. Couples can obviously have their tête-à-tête and customers wanting more interaction can sit at the bar.
Philippe, whose previous position was that of maître d’hôtel at Mastard, after stints at Hélicoptère and Pastaga, in particular, maintains a beautiful wine list, stocked with artisanal gems. He also prepares very original cocktails, such as an amaretto sour with sea buckthorn.
“What we like is introducing customers to products: lovage, haskap, sea buckthorn, radish tops, etc. », concludes Laurence.
8111, rue Saint-Denis, Montreal