This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
Quebecers are fond of Asian cuisine, even if they often only know a few specialties. To arouse our curiosity and titillate our taste buds, there’s nothing like the Japanese Yatai MTL festival, which will bring Montreal’s shops, restaurants and streets to life between June 6 and 12.
Japanese cuisine is far from being limited to sushi, ramen and karaage, the fried chicken that has been so popular for some time. “In fact, the Japanese mostly eat sushi at family gatherings. On a daily basis, they prefer faster, more practical and less expensive dishes, which can be found in yatais”, immediately explains sake sommelier and culinary expert Kuniko Fujita, ambassador of the Yatai festival, whose cooking section of rue will take place from June 10 to 12 at the Marché des Possibles and the adjacent Entrepôt77, in Mile-End.
Yatai, the diet of men… and of the gods!
Founded in 2018 to introduce a simple and festive aspect of Japanese cuisine, the Yatai festival is intended to reflect the community events that abound in the land of the Rising Sun. Originally, in the XVIIIe century, the yatais were small stalls where workers who worked outside came to eat. Then, they became essential after the Second World War, when the black market was in full swing. The latter has since given way to mainstream meetings where candy and good-natured spirit dominate.
“You also have to know, adds M.me Fujita, that the Japanese gods (there are at least eight million!), linked to everything we touch, love lively neighborhoods and good food. So, the yatais are a way of welcoming them and sharing these dishes with them. »
The Yatai festival in Montreal is therefore quite faithful to the state of mind that reigns in Japanese events. “It’s a space for encounters, delicacies and fun, with a really special energy”, confirms Hideyuki Imaizumi, chef-owner of the Marusan and Fleurs & Cadeau restaurants. The latter, who has participated in the festival since its inception, is very attached to this event. “It is an ideal opportunity to share my roots and introduce them to a large number of people. “There are actually 5,000 festival-goers per day on average at this event.
On the Yatai menu
The French have their ham and butter baguette, the Belgians their cone of fries, the Mexicans their tacos. Each country has its own fast and/or street food specialties. How are they available in Japan?
There are ramens, these soups made up of a variety of broths, Chinese noodles, meat (often a slice of grilled pork), vegetables, seaweed and an egg. “But in summer, the Japanese also like the cold version of this recipe, nakamichi,” says Kuniko Fujita.
Karaage (fried chicken), which is eaten as is or dipped in soy sauce and sesame, is also popular in yatais. But it is impossible not to be attracted by the smoked version of this volatile, the yakitoris. These skewers made up of wings and pieces (the size of a bite) of chicken are grilled on barbecues in front of the customers… and excite the appetites! “People love the show that we give and are often very hungry”, confirms with a laugh the chef Hideyuki Imaizumi, who prepares it every year during the Montreal festival. What is his secret? “Apart from the fact that I love fire and smoke, I marinate my chicken pieces sous vide in salted water with Japanese salt, which makes them much crispier when cooked,” he says. he.
Other savory dishes that we know less about are also very popular in yatais. We can think of takoyakis, dumplings made from wheat flour three to five centimeters in diameter and stuffed with pieces of grilled octopus. They are cooked on a special spherical plate, and they are eaten very hot.
The Japanese also have their own versions of the sandwich, which they interpret with eggs (tamago) in small pieces or with breaded pork (katsu) mixed with cabbage. “But people also love the spectacle of preparing yakisobas, noodles sautéed on large plates with meat (especially pork) and vegetables,” says Ms.me Fujita. The cooks exaggerate their gestures to impress visitors, and it works! »
Desserts and alcohols
Asian food is not often associated with desserts. Yet in Japan they are popular and have specific characteristics. “They are less sweet than elsewhere and are made of different ingredients, such as red beans, rice flour, matcha tea or koji, a natural sugar made from mushrooms that is also used in condiments. », explains the expert.
The Japanese therefore have a variety of cakes — including the famous Japanese steamed cheesecake, which is much lighter than ours — parfaits, ice cream, smoothies and candied fruit.
As for alcohols, they are an integral part of yatais. “Sakes may have been religious drinks originally, but they have become a staple at events in Japan,” confirms Kuniko Fujita. They will therefore be part of the Montreal festival, as well as Japanese beers and whiskey, whose reputation largely transcends Japanese borders.
And now that the table is set, all you have to do is correctly pronounce ” itadakimasu ! », used to wish each other bon appétit in Japanese. Happy festival!