Yam nomadic pleasures: Mediterranean airs in the Petit Laurier

Good news for summer: a nice take-out counter offers light and surprisingly tasty little sandwiches, with exotic names that make you dream, just a stone’s throw from Laurier Park.

Yam, that’s its name, means “sea” in Hebrew, tells us its owner, Anton Dutot, to whom we also owe Tap Tap cocktails, a cocktail workshop camouflaged at the back of the sand-colored premises (and we challenges you to find the door here with the naked eye!), with bohemian decor. The Branche d’Olivier market once stood there on Laurier Avenue East.

On the short (but diverse) menu, we find “baba” (an invented name this time), refined sandwiches made in Israeli challah buns. “Soft and soft as a cloud,” the owner likes to say, who ate it as a child at his grandparents’ house in France. And he is not wrong. These egg rolls (courtesy of the Montreal Kosher Bakery, rue Victoria, the only kosher ingredient on the menu, it should be noted) can actually be eaten on their own.

The most popular is the Hermès, a chicken “baba” with sumac, mint yogurt and garlic. We devoured the Iris (grilled halloumi, roasted eggplant and beet hummus), but we promise to try the Neroli (lamb kofta with feta) and why not the Boreas, with gravlax, pomegranate yogurt and with tarragon.

It’s light, fresh, and we appreciate the delicate mix of textures. It’s not cheap ($15), but the flavors take you on a journey. Perfect for a nice snack in the sun or, why not, on the pretty terrace, which here has half a dozen tables and, worth noting, swings!

Also on the menu: “cornella” (another invented name), pancakes with a slight taste of toast, made with unsold crushed challah bread. Served in a cone in savory mode (beef kofta, halloumi or gravlax, with ever so cute names: soleado, gaïa, marina, always $15) or, why not, sweet (hazelnut, pistachio, or candied lemon, for half the price)!

To drink, finally, don’t miss the “mok”, yet another homemade creation based on cold brewed tea, flavored (during our visit) with mint tea, peach and orange blossom. It’s fresh and really refreshing!

After working in the world of bars (via Perles & Paddock and the former Boho), Anton Dutot dreamed of adding this gourmet counter to his bow. Note that it also offers a mini grocery corner with sardines in oil, olives and tapenades, in addition to a few bottles of privately imported wine to take away. And it’s not over: with an alcohol license expected soon, we want to expand the menu to soon offer some “mezze” to share as a bonus. To be continued, somewhere this summer!

Open Wednesday to Sunday, 12 p.m. to 8 p.m.

1584, avenue Laurier Est, Montreal

Visit the YAM website