A personal account details a life-changing near-death experience while big-wave surfing in Nazaré, Portugal. The author reflects on the profound impact of this event, leading to a transformation characterized by gratitude, patience, and determination. Despite facing physical and mental challenges post-accident, including surgeries and PTSD, the passion for surfing remains unwavering. The narrative highlights overcoming societal doubts, personal struggles, and the journey toward achieving dreams, illustrating resilience and the pursuit of one’s aspirations.
Facing the Abyss: A Journey Through Fear and Recovery
Twelve years ago, I faced a life-altering moment while attempting to ride the tallest wave I had ever encountered. As I struggled in the tumultuous waters, one wave ripped my life vest apart, leaving me adrift and vulnerable. In those agonizing minutes between life and death, my thoughts were consumed by the people I loved. At only 26 years old, I felt a deep sadness at the thought of never seeing them again. I quickly realized that my predicament was a direct result of my choices, and I was alone in the vast ocean. Accepting my fate, I found myself in a dark place, contemplating death.
Emerging Stronger: Lessons from Near-Death
When I was finally rescued by another surfer, I was unconscious. Though I cannot speak for others who have had similar near-death experiences, I emerged from that dark place with newfound wisdom. Surviving such a harrowing experience filled me with gratitude for life, and I became a better person through it all.
My perspective shifted dramatically; I became more patient, generous, and empathetic. Those who have brushed with death often gain a deeper understanding of life’s fragility. As infants, we arrive in this world with limited consciousness, unaware of the miracle that life truly is. Surviving a near-death experience forces you to embrace this reality.
The accident that changed my life occurred off the coast of Nazaré in Portugal, a renowned hub for big-wave surfing. Despite the risks, I remained dedicated to my dream of becoming the first woman to conquer the biggest waves on Earth. That near-death experience only fueled my determination; an inner voice reassured me that I could push boundaries, and I refused to abandon my dream.
Returning to the water wasn’t straightforward. My spine required three surgeries, and I grappled with post-traumatic stress disorder along with an anxiety disorder that had worsened after the accident. However, I felt compelled to overcome these challenges.
Reflecting on my childhood, I recognize that my anxiety was rooted in difficult circumstances. I faced numerous health challenges, including asthma from a young age, and endured a tumultuous upbringing. Yet, this pain has shaped me into who I am today, inspiring me to transform adversity into something positive.
My father, Fernando Gabeira, a prominent figure in Brazil’s political landscape, greatly influenced my life. He was a dreamer who gave me the freedom to forge my path. When I left home at 13 and later moved abroad, including Australia and Hawaii, it was partly an escape from my painful past.
Surfing became my unwavering passion amidst the chaos. It offered a constant source of solace and joy, allowing me to connect with the ocean regardless of my circumstances. At 17, I wrote in my diary my aspiration to be the best female big-wave surfer, driven by a love for the sea and a desire to experience unforgettable moments riding massive waves.
Training for this dream required dedication, from gym workouts to diving and cycling, ensuring I was always in peak physical condition. After my accident in 2013, it took four long years to feel ready to take on the biggest waves again. The uncertainty of whether I could ever return to my sport was daunting, but it paled in comparison to the uncertainty of life and death I had already faced.
Throughout my journey, I encountered sexist comments from some male surfers suggesting that women should avoid dangerous wave conditions. I had heard similar remarks over the years, often from those I respected. However, I learned to separate their doubts from my capabilities. Each time someone implied that I wasn’t cut out for surfing, I dug deep within myself, determined to prove them wrong. Whenever I questioned my strength or ability to recover from surgeries, I channeled that doubt into hard work.
Confronting critics was never my approach. Instead, I chose to let my results speak for themselves. I demonstrated my commitment to my craft by staying true to myself and continuously improving my skills.