Wines of the week | One grape variety, several experiences

The grape varieties all have an aromatic identity. Citrus notes are generally very present in Sauvignon Blanc wines, and those of pepper in Syrah wines. But the terroir and the winegrower’s choices have just as much, if not more, influence on the character of the wine. And fortunately ! This is what contributes to the incredible diversity among wines made from the same grape variety.

Veronique rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

Easygoing and fresh Syrah

This cuvée is made entirely with Syrah, from the terroirs of northwest Sicily. We would not be wrong to expect a fleshy, warm wine. But it is not! It is a fresh, easy-drinking wine with a crunchy fruitiness; a real treat and excellent value for money. The wine has the typical purplish color of the grape variety. The nose is appetizing, all in small red fruits, with pretty floral notes. Very fresh and super dry on the palate, it shows radiance and gluttony, with a certain grain in the texture that brings relief. Light tannins give it structure and make it an ideal wine for the table. Super versatile, it is served chilled with pizza, pasta with sausage and arugula, or even fish with tomatoes, capers and black olives.

Keeping: 1 or 2 years.

Vino Lauria Vino a Gogo Terre Siciliane 2020, $ 15.35 (14420031), 13.55%, organic.

Consult the SAQ file

A sauvignon in relief

In this cuvée, the Sauvignon Blanc grown in Rueda, northwest of Madrid, gives exactly what you would expect. The wine opens with an expressive nose with aromas of citrus fruits, green apple, hard peach, and some notes of fresh herbs. On the palate, it is fruity and juicy, devoid of any greenness, with a more ripe character than sauvignons from cooler climates. It shows a lot of freshness, but is also endowed with substance, a certain power, which makes it more of a wine for meals than for aperitifs. Light bitters, citrus peel notes, bring relief and confirm its place at the table. Not the most complex, but really well put together, it is ideal to accompany a fish with a grapefruit white butter, a seafood risotto or a citrus and avocado salad.

Keeping: 2 or 3 years.

Marqués de Cáceres Excellens Rueda 2020, $ 16.90 (14365617), 14%.

Consult the SAQ file

Classic Crozes-Hermitage

Another wine made entirely with Syrah, which could not be more different from the first. We are here in the north of the Rhône valley, the stronghold of this grape variety. Crozes-Hermitage wines can vary a lot in style, but here we have a very classic expression. The nose is very aromatic, fragrant, with notes of blackberry, violet, black olive, smoked meat, bacon and anise. The palate is rich, ripe and intense, with a lot of substance, but without falling into heaviness: a fresh acidity balances it all. Moderate but firm tannins, coupled with this material, certainly make it a wine for the table, ideal for autumn and its more invigorating cuisine: braised beef with anise, lamb stew with black olives, duck breast with blackberries.

Keeping: 4 to 6 years.

Les Vins de Vienne Crozes-Hermitage 2019, $ 28.30 (10678229), 13%.

Consult the SAQ file