Wines of the week | Merlot and Semillon

If I say Bordeaux, you probably think red wine and cabernet sauvignon. However, Merlot is the most cultivated there. White, which represents about 10% of production, is often associated with Sauvignon Blanc. But Sémillon produces fascinating, completely different wines. And Bergerac, long the poor neighbour, is a source of excellent value for money.

Veronique Rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

Stepping out of the shadow of Bordeaux

North of Entre-Deux-Mers and east of Castillon, the Bergerac appellation is not under the control of Bordeaux, but is part of the vineyards of the South-West. Les Équilibristes is a collective of winegrowers from many regions, united by a desire to produce wines as naturally as possible. Bergerac shares many of the same grape varieties as Bordeaux, but has long lived in its shadow. However, there is no shortage of quality wines, and prices are generally very low. Like this delicious Shaggy! Made mainly from Cabernet Franc (whole bunches) with a little Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, it offers a charming nose, all in crunchy red fruit. The palate shows brilliance and delicacy, with ripe fruit, enhanced by noble vegetal notes, lots of freshness and a hint of firm tannins. Tasty ! Drink with sausages, grilled vegetable salad, beetroot risotto.

Les Équilibristes Hirsute Bergerac 2021, $20.80 (14431995), 13.5%

Aging: 3 to 4 years

Bursting with flavor

The work of the Pueyo family is remarkable: the vines are grown organically (in conversion for this vineyard), with biodynamic practices, the vinifications are very little interventionist and, above all, the wines are delicious and of an excellent quality- price. Tellus is made entirely from Merlot, grown south-east of Saint-Émilion, just across the Dordogne, and vinified in concrete vats. In this excellent vintage, it gives a wine with a very nice nose with notes of blackberries and blackcurrants, a hint of cedar and tobacco. The palate overflows with flavors, with ripe material, lots of freshness and radiance. Light tannins bring just the right amount of roughness. Complete and very harmonious, it will be delicious with red meats or grilled sausages, duck confit, a Portobello burger.

Pueyo Tellus Vinea Bordeaux 2020, $22.10 (14514993), 13%

Aging: 2 to 3 years

All in textures

Leaving the vineyard where the Tellus grapes are grown, you cross Entre-Deux-Mers to the south, cross the Garonne and arrive at Barsac, a great appellation for sweet wines, very close to Sauternes. But they also make dry white wine, hence the Bordeaux appellation (Barsac being reserved for sweet wines). It was the excellent winemaker Jean-Marie Guffens, from the Verget estate in Burgundy, who took over this estate in 2017. Made mainly from Sémillon, the wine offers a discreet nose of citrus fruits, yellow fruits and beeswax. . More in texture than in aromas, it develops a nice richness in the mouth with freshness, grain and slight bitterness that bring relief and lengthen the finish. It’s a change from the usual Sauvignon Blancs! Perfect for grilled fatty fish, seafood risotto, veal blanquette.

Chateau Closiot Bordeaux 2018, $23.85 (14682111), 13%

Aging: 3 to 4 years

* Only in about sixty branches, but there are still some in the warehouse, so it can be ordered.