Wines of the week | Keep a bottle… or two

The question of on-call time comes up often. Those I indicate are from the date of publication and not from the vintage. Ideally, if you want to cellar wines, buy at least two bottles, which you will open at different times, to see how the wine evolves. It’s fascinating ! The golden rule: always open them rather too early than too late. There is nothing more distressing than a wine past its prime.

Veronique Rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

Juicy and tasty

This is another delicious red from this house whose wines rarely disappoint us. Not surprising with impeccable work in the vineyard and in the cellar. But beware, lovers of full-bodied wines, this one is not for you. Made with a majority of Zweigelt, which is reminiscent in several respects of Gamay, with also Blaufränkisch and Saint-Laurent, the three main red grape varieties in Austria, it is rather to be classified in the “wines of thirst” category. The nose is charming, full of red fruits and a floral hint. The mouth, light, is all in freshness, lively and smart, not very tannic. A few hints of herbs and spices add interest. Simple but juicy and greedy, with an impression of purity that makes it even more appealing. Serve chilled with roast chicken, sausage pasta, grilled vegetable pizza.

Weingut Heinrich Naked Red Weinland 2018, $21.10 (14729484), 12%, organic

Laying down: to drink

Orange full of flavor

“White” grapes are generally yellow in color when ripe. But some have a more intense color, including pinot gris (or grigio, same grape variety): it varies from pink to blue-grey. In Friuli, stronghold of the best pinots grigio, the tradition of ramato involves maceration of the juice with the skins, giving a more intense color to the wine. Like what is now called orange wine. But the profile and the color of these wines vary a lot according to the grape varieties and the maceration time. This one is pale salmon, slightly coppery. The nose opens with notes of smoke, chalk, orange, citrus peel, herbs. The palate is tasty, with an impression of fullness, but also freshness, grain, slight bitterness on the finish and few tannins. Try it with charcuterie, orange shrimp, smoked salmon and spinach quiche.

Scarbolo Ilramato Friuli 2020, $24.35 (14467891), 13%

Aging: 1 to 3 years

Total success

The Côtes de Bourg are on the right bank of Bordeaux, and as is customary in these colder soils, they mainly grow Merlot. Forces de Vie is the great cuvée of the Béchet family, and what a wine! The nose transports us to Bordeaux, but with a fragrance, purity and vitality that stand out. Notes of tobacco, plum and cocoa mingle with noble vegetal and perfectly integrated oak. In the mouth, it offers a ripe, almost silky texture, an invigorating freshness and fine, firm tannins, but without any harshness. A blend of 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 18 months in new barrels, the wine is complete, complex and very harmonious. Drink now, with grilled meats, braised lamb shank, duck confit, or cellar.

Château Fougas Forces de Vie Côtes de Bourg 2018, $52.75 (14910232), 13%, organic

Aging: 10 to 12 years