Wines of the week | Get surprised

Sometimes the familiar is reassuring. But often, I like to be surprised, at least challenged, by the wines I taste. Here is a sauvignon blanc not quite similar to the typical expression of the grape variety; a little-known grape variety from southwestern France; a unique champagne, which exudes authenticity. They all have, in their own way, a little je ne sais quoi that makes us stop and start thinking: where does this wine come from? What does he have to say about his part of the country?

Veronique rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

An expressive Touraine

François Chidaine is one of the great winemakers of the Loire Valley; he produces excellent local wines in the Montlouis appellation. With the same care, he also produces more affordable cuvées in the Touraine appellation. Like this sauvignon blanc wine, made from vines in the Cher valley. Very expressive on the nose, it offers an intense scent of elderberry, apple blossoms, orange, with delicate herbaceous notes. The palate is round, full-bodied and juicy, with very ripe fruit, rich substance, balanced by light bitters, a freshness with mint accents and a mineral, flinty impression. Complex and complete, it is certainly made for the table. Try it with grilled fish with herbs or with grapefruit and basil juice, orange shrimp, mint tabbouleh.

Keeping: 2 or 3 years.

François Chidaine Touraine 2020, $ 19.15 (14286521), 13.5%.

Consult the SAQ file

Gourmet and digestible

Fronton is an appellation in southwestern France, north of Toulouse. Negrette, a very old local grape variety, reigns in the region. Domaine La Colombière works the vines there with immense respect for the land, the environment, and this heritage grape variety. This cuvée is a great introduction to the Négrette: it highlights the fruity and easy-drinking character of the grape variety. Its nose is fruity and peppery, with notes of raspberry, cherry, blackberry and spices, and a hint of animal, blood. The palate is very fresh, with fruit, texture and light tannins, just firm enough to provide the right amount of depth. Gourmet and easy to digest, and full of the taste of the place, it is ideal for a charcuterie platter, a steak tartare, a salad of chicken livers.

Keeping: 1 or 2 years.

La Colombière Les Frontons Flingueurs 2020, $ 22.55 (14228516), 12.5%, organic.

Consult the SAQ file

Champagne crush

I fell in love with this champagne. Vincent Couche cultivates his 15 hectares of biodynamic vines, in the Côte des Bar. This cuvée is made with 84% Pinot Noir from the Kimmeridgian terroirs of Buxeuil, and 16% Chardonnay, from the chalky terroirs of Montgueux. Almost a quarter of the base wines are fermented in barrels. The result is a complex champagne, tasty, ample and full of vitality. A very pretty nose opens with notes of ripe pear, quince, almond, with some oxidative notes reminiscent of chard apple and walnut. Rich and complete, it also shows a lot of tension and freshness. Delicate notes of zest and salt add to its fresh and invigorating character, and call for a second drink. For an aperitif, or with pan-fried scallops, lobster or chicken with morels.

Keeping: 4 to 6 years.

Vincent Couche Élégance Extra Brut Champagne, $ 50.50 (14758816), 12.5%, biodynamic.

Consult the SAQ file