Wines of the week | For the love of French wines

In 2021, red wines accounted for 58% of wine sales at the SAQ. Still dominant, they have nevertheless been in constant decline for several years. On the other hand, our affinity for European wines is maintained. And for French wines in particular: they still represent more than 30% of wine sales at the SAQ today, roughly the same proportion as 10 years ago.

Veronique Rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

Authentic terroir

This wine, produced by Les Vignerons d’Estézargues, a cooperative cellar that brings together a dozen winegrowing families, has become a must on our shelves. Remarkably consistent, it offers one of the best value for money every year. The 2020 confirms it again. From a very good vintage, it opens with a delicate, fine, fragrant nose, with floral, violet and ripe black fruit notes. Allowed to breathe, aromas of blackberry cream and spices appear. The palate is rich and silky, full of fruit, but with super fresh acidity that brings momentum and tone. Ripe but firm tannins crumble on the finish. A very complete wine, resulting from exemplary viticulture and vinification, which is an authentic expression of its terroir. At this price, well done! To be enjoyed with dry sausage, merguez couscous, lamb burger, sausages and grilled vegetables.

Domaine La Montagnette Signargues Côtes du Rhône Villages 2020, $17.45 (11095949), 14.5%

Aging: 3 to 5 years

Between power and finesse

This superb estate of around twenty hectares cultivates its vines at altitude, on the slopes backing onto the Dentelles de Montmirail, above the village of Vacqueyras. Made from 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, the Fruit Sauvage cuvée is a marvel of balance between power and finesse. The nose opens with notes of red fruits, herbs, garrigue, spices and undergrowth. The mouth follows, leaning on a very ripe fruit, with still a lot of spices and garrigue, pepper, anise and a hint of black olive. Ample and powerful on the palate, the wine is balanced by a remarkable freshness. Fine tannins add relief and slight bitterness, such as orange peel, and contribute to its freshness. Very harmonious and with a long finish, it will go well, after being decanted, with duck breast with blackberries, or lamb chops with herbs or tapenade.

Le Clos de Caveau Wild Fruit Vacqueyras 2019, $31.25 (13750370), 14.5%, organic

Aging: 4 to 5 years

Complete and harmonious

Florent and Clément Pinard are the twentieth generation to operate this family estate. Undoubtedly among the best winegrowers in Sancerre, they cultivate 17 hectares of organic vines (not certified) and vinify as naturally as possible. The Florès cuvée comes from vines grown in Bué on the famous caillottes, a limestone terroir, and vinified on lees in vats. The wine is already charming on the nose, fragrant, with accents of citrus fruits, aromatic herbs, flowers, elderberry. And what a beautiful substance in the mouth! Ripe, ample and juicy, it also shows radiance, freshness and tension. Mineral, gunflint, and saline notes add complexity and texture. A complete and very harmonious wine, to be served with: fish with grapefruit or sorrel beurre blanc, pan-fried scallops with citrus zest, seafood risotto.

Vincent Pinard Sancerre Flores 2019, $42 (12097962), 13%

Aging: 4 to 6 years