Wines of the week | Distinct aromas

The fruit in the wine is essential. A wine that has no fruit has no substance in the mouth. On the other hand, for the aromas, it is something else. Some wines have a lot of fruit aromas, others have less and display distinct aroma families. Here are three: a red that smells of tar and leather, a white with aromas of plants and spices, then another with iodized notes.

Veronique Rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

Perfect with a steak cooked on the barbecue

Be careful, it is not a question here of a light and drinkable wine. On the contrary ! But summer also rhymes with grilled meats and this one definitely needs it. From old Monastrell (Mourvèdre) vines at altitude, this Tarima Nature Alicante 2020 displays a deep purplish color that announces the nose: dark, dense and ripe. Aromas of black fruits, brambles, reveal themselves gently, but it is above all a question of black earth, tar and leather. Rather full-bodied, with firm and pronounced tannins, it highlights the rustic character of the Monastrell and the Alicante region. Surely not for everyone, it nevertheless shows a lot of character and will appeal to those who like very dry and tannic red wines. A decanter for an hour or two will do it good.

Tarima Nature Alicante 2020, $17.10 (14921089), 14.5%, organic

Aging: 3 or 4 years

For an aperitif on a beautiful summer day

Young white wines from Austria, and grüner veltliner in particular, often have what I call a slight Spritz : a residue of carbon dioxide which adds tone and accentuates the freshness of the wine. This is the case with this wine from the Kremstal region, fresh, smart and well-typed. Moderately aromatic, this Laurenz V. Singing Grüner Veltliner Kremstal 2020 opens with notes of citrus, russet apple and pear, herbs and white pepper. Light and very dry, it still shows resistance, with texture and a certain complexity. And it keeps very well for a day or two once opened. Perfect for a picnic with its screw cap, or at the table with grilled fish with herbs, breaded veal cutlet and celeriac remoulade.

Laurenz V. Singing Grüner Veltliner Kremstal 2020, $19 (11409320), 12.5%

Aging: 1 or 2 years

Seafood Companion

Here is another very good wine from this remarkable cooperative cellar, from which you can seriously buy with your eyes closed. The 2020 vintage of this Chablisienne Petit Chablis Pas si Petit, very hot, sunny and dry, has nevertheless produced wines considered very classic, and this is the case here. The color is pale. The nose is aromatic and very fine, with notes of apple blossom, green apple, citrus, peach and a little cream. The palate is caressing, with a ripe body and a creamy texture, to which a tonic acidity gives response. The whole is punctuated by saline notes and oyster shells. A tailor-made Chablis wine to accompany all your seafood feasts: fresh oysters, shrimps, razor clams, scallops, lobster, etc. Also delicious with fish tartare or ceviche.

La Chablisienne Petit Chablis Not So Small 2020, $25.05 (14955490), 12%

Aging: 3 or 4 years