Wines of the week | Comfort in the glass

This week, here are three wines that will accompany a comforting cuisine, a nod to the cold weather that sets in: a drinkable wine with a southern accent, all in freshness and very versatile; an orange wine of great complexity, which perfumes Sicily and will delight the curious; and, to finish, a great classic from Rioja, particularly successful in what seems to be one of the best vintages of the last decade for this region.

Veronique rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

A harmonious, fresh and delicious wine

Located in the north of the appellation, in Valréas, Clos Bellane cultivates its vines at altitude on soils rich in limestone. Its wines are full of finesse and freshness. This 100% Syrah cuvée opens with a fine nose, with very pure fruit, with aromas of raspberry, blackberry, blackcurrant. Notes of white pepper, brambles and garrigue add complexity. Everything is very melted. The wine is just as harmonious on the palate, with a caressing texture, light very fine tannins and a delicate mineral impression. Very complete for the price, it is a wine whose freshness and gluttony astonish given its alcohol content, the effect of a very fresh terroir and a very gentle vinification. Enjoy with lamb chops, chicken cacciatore or with olives, guinea fowl with bacon, merguez.

Clos Bellane la Petite Bellane Côtes du Rhône Villages 2019, $ 20.35 (14559500), 14.5%, organic

Keeping: 3 or 4 years

A complete and unique orange

Many of the best orange wines I have tasted are made with very aromatic grape varieties. These sometimes give wines that are too intense, downright heady. The maceration of their juices with the skins seems to attenuate the aromas, while giving the wines enormous complexity and texture – they are often also grape varieties rich in phenolic compounds. Made from white Muscat, this cuvée, Marabino Muscatedda Terre Siciliane 2020, remains very fragrant, with notes of orange, orange blossom, fresh grapes, peach and jasmine. The palate is rich and full, with texture, relief and grain, a firm tannic grip and a very long finish with saline notes. A unique and very complete wine which is well worth its price. To taste with a chicken with candied lemon, a tagine, cold meats, antipasti, squash pasta.

Marabino Muscatedda Terre Siciliane 2020, $ 28.40 (14446548), 13%, organic

Keeping: 6 to 8 years

A classic that will please

It’s hard to do more classic than this Rioja wine: perfect for class or to give as a gift! The Imperial Reserva is made with 85% Tempranillo, and 15% Graciano, Mazuelo (name of Carignan in the region) and Grenache, fermented in barrels and matured for 24 months in French and American oak barrels. The nose, rich, dense and complete, offers aromas of strawberry compote, plum, tobacco and old leather. The palate is rich, with silky texture and ripe fruit, the same aromas as on the nose to which are added woody and vanilla notes, all very melted and harmonious. The tannins, very present and firm, are scattered on a long finish and promise it a bright future. To taste with a rabbit or a guinea fowl with prunes, a braised lamb shank, black pudding.

Compania Vinicola del Norte de España Imperial Reserva Rioja 2016, $ 39.00 (12897863), 14%

Keeping: 8 to 12 years