Wines of the week | At each temperature its temperament

The temperature at which wine is served has a great influence on its tasting. Its aromas, its structure (acidity, alcohol, tannins, among others) and even its texture are perceived differently at different temperatures. It’s always interesting to serve a wine that’s a little too cold at first, then to see how our perceptions change as it warms.

Veronique Rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

A real local wine

Again in this vintage, Evriadis Sclavos’ Alchymiste blanc is excellent value for money. It is always a singular wine, very marked by its terroir of the island of Kefalonia. Not very aromatic and not very fruity, it really reveals itself in the mouth with a surprising volume. Ripe yellow fruit lends some roundness and serves as a backdrop to saline and citrus peel notes that stretch out on the finish. Very nice bitters add relief. A real local wine, from a biodynamic culture (not certified), it is rare at this price. Above all, do not serve it too cold: the fruit and above all the texture only appear from around 10°C. A blend of roditis with several other indigenous grape varieties, it is ideal for the table: grilled or fried fish, spanakopita, stuffed zucchini flowers.

Domaine Sclavos Alchymiste Wine of Greece 2021, $17.05 (13503766), 12.5%

Aging: 4 or 5 years

Winner in many ways

Despite a very dry summer, Tuscany had another excellent vintage in 2021. And the Colli Senesi from Carpineta Fontalpino is again very successful. It marvelously combines a fruity character, very cherry, a little kirsch, with notes of undergrowth, black earth, tobacco leaf. Archisec, with chewiness and grain, its ripe fruit gives it a silky substance, framed by fresh acidity and moderate tannins. Perfect for the table, it will be perfect with eggplant parmigiana, sausage and arugula pasta, osso buco. And nothing pleases me more than this very simple and very light bottle, with a much lower environmental impact than that of a heavy bottle.

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Colli Senesi 2021, $23.35 (10854085), 14%, organic

Aging: 4 or 5 years

Disarmingly authentic and natural

Elena Pantaleoni’s wines never leave you indifferent. Everything is implemented in this area of ​​Emilia-Romagna to let the terroir express itself, starting with the cultivation of native grape varieties. For this cuvée, 70% barbera and 30% croatina – called bonarda in Emilia-Romagna, but nothing to do with the bonarda of Piedmont and even less that of Argentina – were vinified in stainless steel vats without any input. It gives a fresh, crunchy and gourmet wine, but also with depth and complexity. Lots of black fruits, enhanced by a little volatile acidity, mingle with notes of blackcurrant leaves, noble vegetal and black earth. A mineral backstory underpins it all. Archisec, with grain to the texture, light tannins and lots of vitality. Try it with charcuterie, duck breast with cherries, grilled radicchio salad and beets.

La Stoppa Trebbiolo Wine from Italy 2020, $29 (11896501), 13.5%

Aging: 3 or 4 years