Wines of the week | A little heat in the glass

To dream of warmer regions, here are two whites from Spain and a red from Greece. All from native grape varieties, they make us travel, while making us discover wines and flavors very typical of their regions.

Veronique Rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

Very versatile

Xarel-lo is an indigenous grape variety from Catalonia. Widely used for the production of Cava, it is also increasingly vinified alone as a still, non-sparkling wine. It is one of those less aromatic grape varieties, which expresses itself more in texture than in aromas. While restrained, it opens on the nose with delicate aromas of apple, peach, white flowers and fresh cream. Dry, it offers a round texture, with a pretty ripe fruit, always delicate, enhanced with notes of citrus, zest, with a mineral, slightly saline impression, like oyster shell. Light, with a lot of freshness, it is ideal as an aperitif. It will also accompany fish and seafood simply grilled, drizzled with olive oil and lemon, oysters or sushi.

Parés Baltà Calcari Penedès 2020, $19.40 (11377225), 12%, organic

Aging: 1 to 3 years

Well-mastered Albariño

Albariño is also a native grape variety of Spain, but in the West this time, in the region of Galicia, commonly known as Green Spain. Rias Baixas is an appellation on the Atlantic coast, much more humid and temperate than the rest of the country. Albariño is the king grape variety here. And in the hands of Eulogio Pomares it gives some of its most beautiful expressions. Not very fruity on the nose, it offers delicate notes of peach and orange, as well as yeast. It is especially on the palate that it expresses itself, with an asserted saline character, a certain fullness and a freshness with citrus tones. A wine that will do justice to seafood, especially crudos or fish tartare.

Eulogio Pomares Zarate Albariño Rias Baixas 2020, $23.60 (13529202), 13%

Aging: 3 to 4 years

With bloody meat

The region of Naoussa, in northern Greece, is the kingdom of the Xynomavro grape variety, undoubtedly one of the most qualitative and fascinating red grape varieties in the country. It is reminiscent of Italian nebbiolo: its color is very pale, and its tannic structure can be imposing. Here is the perfect introduction. The nose is almost charming, with aromas of strawberry jam, but also complex with notes of dried tomatoes, leather, beef broth. Very dry, with a very present acidity, it is based on firm tannins which give it chewiness, relief and a certain austerity. Undoubtedly made for the table, it will enjoy the company of a rare red meat which will calm its tannic ardour.

Kir-Yianni Cuvée Villages Naoussa 2018, $16.60 (13990613), 13.5%

Aging: 4 to 6 years