Wines of the week

Climate change brings its share of challenges to winegrowers, in particular heat waves and increasing droughts. This was the case in 2021 in the Langhe region as well as in 2022 in Sancerre. But it is also characteristic of great terroirs, combined with careful viticulture, to allow the grapes to retain freshness and thus produce wines that can certainly be powerful, but also completely balanced.

Affordable: rustic and full of charm

Borgogno wines always enchant with their traditional character, sometimes a little rustic, but often full of charm. Wines that transport us to the misty hills of the Langhe region, in Piedmont. The Pinin cuvée is no exception in 2021. A blend of barbera and dolcetto above all, with a little nebbiolo, it offers a rather restrained nose, but which reveals a panoply of aromas on aeration: strawberry, cherry, tobacco, herbs, tomato, olive. Archi-dry, the wine offers a firm and tannic mouth, but also super fresh, with radiance and tone. Tasty and drinkable despite its imposing tannins, it appeals to the table. Perfect for a good dry sausage, a well-marbled piece of grilled meat, a Portobello burger with cheese.

Borgogno Pinin Langhe 2021, $20.95 (14102403), 13.5%

Aging: 4 to 6 years

Classic: bursting with freshness

New vintage, new expression for this classic cuvée produced by Jeanne Gaillard, daughter of Pierre. After a suave and opulent 2020, here is a 2021 all in radiance and freshness: the Pierre Gaillard Syrah La Dernier Vigne Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes 2021. These old Syrah vines on a soil of rolled pebbles again give a fragrant wine, with accents of fruit, flowers and pepper, with a meaty touch. The radiance and freshness already present on the nose are also found on the palate, with a complex aromatic palette and light, fine tannins that provide just enough grip on the finish. Fine, fresh, fruity and greedy, with also lamb’s lettuce, the wine is a very fine expression of a fresh Syrah made for the table. Try it with herbed lamb chops, roast chicken with ratatouille or black olives, or simply a charcuterie platter.

Pierre Gaillard Syrah The Last Vine Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes 2021, $26.85 (15014528), 13%

Aging: 3 to 5 years

Discovery: a safe bet

Of the few Sancerre under $30, this is among the best. Created by Maurice Cherrier in 1927, the family estate, established in Verdigny, is now run by his grandsons. The warm vintage gave a wine with very ripe fruit, but balanced by a fresh acidity and nice bitterness: the Domaine de la Rossignole Sancerre 2022. The nose is fine and complex, with notes of peach and orange, citrus and white flowers, with a mineral, smoky edge. The palate is oily, ample, even powerful, but remains fresh, with relief and a mineral undertone that stretches out on the finish. A ripe Sancerre, carried by the freshness of its terroir, and a bargain at this price. Try it with seafood gratin, fish with orange and fennel, or cream and sorrel. Note that the wine is only in 39 branches at the moment, but the distribution has just started and there are still 150 cases left in the warehouse.

Domaine de la Rossignole Sancerre 2022, $28.30 (872465), 13.5%

Aging: 2 or 3 years