Wines of the week

It is estimated that there are nearly 10,000 cultivated grape varieties in the world. So you could taste a wine from a different grape every day for nearly 30 years! And we’re in a market where there’s a lot of variety, so take advantage and explore. This week, Spanish and Italian grape varieties to discover… and a completely classic Chardonnay, ideal to accompany crab!

Classic: companion for the crab

The wines of the Petit Chablis appellation come from terroirs that are often higher, colder, with soils different from those of Chablis. In the past, they sometimes had more difficulty reaching full maturity. Today, the appellation often offers wines with good value for money, especially when compared with the rest of Burgundy! And especially among winegrowers who cultivate their vines with great care, such as at Domaine Mauperthuis, in organic and biodynamic conversion. From a sunny vintage, their Petit Chablis is ripe, but perfectly balanced and typical of the region’s wines. The fine nose opens with aromas of cream, pear, peach and almond. The mouth is round and caressing, carried by a fresh acidity and a stony minerality. Smoky notes, like flint, develop on the finish. Perfect for crab and lobster!

Domaine de Mauperthuis Petit Chablis 2020, $24.95 (15074571), 13%

Aging: 2 or 3 years

Affordable: quality volume at a good price

The Sumarroca estate, one of the largest in the Penedès, cultivates nearly 470 hectares of vines. Proof that you can be big and work well: the entire estate has been organic since 2018. A certain volume also allows economies of scale and the possibility of producing wines at affordable prices. Xarel-lo is probably the most popular variety for making dry white wines in the region. A bit like Chardonnay, it produces wines that are not very fruity, but which easily absorb their terroirs. Il·logic from Sumarroca is a great introduction to the variety. The nose is delicate, with notes of citrus, herbs, pear and fennel. Light and very dry, it offers a ripe body, with a certain roundness, enhanced by citrus and saline notes. Simple, but well put together and authentic. Sushi, shrimp salad, cod fritters.

Sumarroca Il logic Penedès 2022, $18.20 (15115901), 12.5%, organic

Laying down: to drink

Discovery: great introduction to the wines of Puglia

The Nero di Troia grape originates from Puglia, the heel of Italy, where it is almost exclusively grown in the northern part. Very qualitative grape variety, it can give powerful wines, with imposing tannins. The Violante de Rivera cuvée is more of a fresh and approachable expression, made with short macerations and aging in concrete vats. The nose is still warm, with notes of blackberry liqueur, black earth and spices. Very dry, the wine has a moderate power, accentuated by firm tannins, but it also remains tonic thanks to a fresh acidity and a mineral impression which lasts on the finish. A very nice introduction to nero di Troia, and wines from Puglia, at a very reasonable price. Perfect for the first grilling on the barbecue! Serve slightly chilled.

Rivera Violante Nero di Troia Castel Del Monte 2019, $18.25 (14788134), 13%

Aging: 2 or 3 years