Wines of the week

A frequent argument against organic is that it is expensive. Admittedly, converting a vineyard that has been cultivated conventionally for years to organic takes time, and the costs will increase in the first few years. But in the medium term, the vines and the soils regain their balance and can produce real wines of terroir and emotion at very competitive prices. And affordable organic wines, there are also a lot! Here are three suggestions for organic wines that perfectly reflect their terroir and are well worth their price.

Discovery: a red with a lot of personality

In Haute-Corse, in the hills east of Calvi, the Maestracci estate has 30 hectares of vines cultivated biodynamically. Clos Reginu is a blend of Nielluciu (the local Sangiovese), Sciaccarellu, Grenache and Cinsault, from the family’s young vines. Pale in color, it has a restrained, intriguing nose, marked by the garrigue, with notes of small red fruits. A very slight trace of gas accentuates its brilliance and freshness on the palate, where vegetal, fruity and mineral intermingle. Light, arch-dry and tasty, it also shows substance and character. Firm tannins bring structure and grain to the texture. A wine with character! Serve slightly chilled with charcuterie, Corsican eggplant, mushroom toast.

Domaine Maestracci Clos Reginu Corse Calvi 2020, $20.55 (13000499), 12.5%, organic

Aging: 2 or 3 years

Bargain: a quality Carignan, at a friendly price

Carignan, previously widely cultivated in the south of France, was considered incapable of producing quality wines. That’s because it was grown for volume. It can have a lot of body, acidity, tannins, sometimes too much. But this cuvée, Domaine Fond Croze Les Vieux Ceps from Raymond Côtes du Rhône Villages Vaison-la-Romaine, comes from old Carignan vines, exposed to the north and grown organically. The old vines help to give complexity and depth, but also harmony: they temper the excesses of youth. The wine, intense and powerful, is also fresh and harmonious. Fragrant, it offers aromas of blackberry, violet, anise and pepper. It appears dark and deep, but with shine. The palate is rich, with very ripe fruit, but remains fresh. Some animal notes and fine-grained tannins unfold on a long finish with a stony impression. Goes well with leg of lamb and prime rib.

Domaine Fond Croze Les Vieux Ceps de Raymond Côtes du Rhône Villages Vaison-la-Romaine 2020, $22.80 (14819682), 14.5%, organic

Aging: 3 to 5 years

Discovery: rediscover Muscadet

Muscadet experienced dark times when overproduction flooded the market with lean, tasteless wines. Today, the region offers a lot of quality wines and it is full of winegrowers who practice very sustainable agriculture and produce real terroir wines, often with excellent value for money. Clisson is one of the 10 Muscadet Crus, the southernmost. On granitic soils, it produces some of the most powerful wines in the region. Le Clisson de La Pépière, from biodynamic viticulture, opens with a slightly fruity, very mineral nose, with notes of sea spray and shellfish. And what matter in the mouth! Of rare intensity and very saline, with delicate notes of citrus fruits, pear and quince. The freshness is also there, accentuated by light noble bitterness on a long finish. Definitely a wine for the table: crab, lobster, smoked fish.

Domaine de La Pépière Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Clisson 2019, $32.75 (14915877), 13.5%, organic

Aging: 6 to 8 years