Wines of the week

Wine is so much more than just a drink. It is steeped in history, culture, traditions. In this section, I present to you a wine resulting from complantation, which is quite simply the presence of several grape varieties in the same plot. This method has a positive effect on biodiversity, the environment, the health of the vines, and we see more and more winegrowers returning to it.

Affordable: a journey through time

The Criollas are a group of Argentine grape varieties, dating from the colonial period, derived from European grape varieties and their crosses. Long used for making low-end wines, they were also, in a peasant context, the source of honest everyday wine. This is what this wine, the Paso a Paso Las Criollas de Don Graciano Vin d’Argentina 2021, seeks to replicate. Made from a blend of criolla, moscatel rosado, pedro gimenez and torrontes, the grapes ferment together, spontaneously. Very aromatic, with notes of muscat, flowers and orange, the wine is dry, light and very fresh. Simple, but very friendly, and a trip back in time. Aperitif, raw vegetables, melon and prosciutto.

Paso a Paso Las Criollas de Don Graciano 2021 Argentina Wine, $19.90 (15102000), 12.2%

Laying down: to drink

Guard: a complex grüner veltliner

Until the Second World War, many Austrian vineyards were planted. There were few vineyards planted exclusively with grüner veltliner. Today, many of the best vineyards along the Danube are reserved for him. Those from the Wachau region are some of the best. Kirnberg is the name of the vineyard, located on the southern bank of the Danube. Smaragd denotes the ripest grapes and often the most complex wines. This one, Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Kirnberg Smaragd Wachau 2021, offers an ample mouthfeel, with a round and juicy texture, with accents of pear, citrus fruits, herbs and spices, carried by a salivating acidity. The final, more tense, stretches on a mineral and spicy impression. Wiener schnitzelblack cod with miso, roast poultry and root vegetables.

Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Kirnberg Smaragd Wachau 2021, $39.50 (15168148), 13.5%

Aging: 6 to 8 years

Discovery: rediscover the Moscato d’Asti

Piedmont is associated with the Nebbiolo grape variety. But the Moscato grape variety (small grain white muscat) is one of the most cultivated there, mainly for the production of Asti: a sweet, sparkling and very simple wine, if not worse. However, the Moscato d’Asti is of a much higher average quality and is incredibly charming! Muscat produces wines that are most often very sweet. Moscato d’Asti is sweet, but rather semi-dry. Its delicate effervescence helps to reduce its sweetness. It’s an explosion of aromas on the nose, with notes of flowers and fresh grapes. On the palate, it’s light, fresh, juicy, and so delightful. Dessert wine par excellence for hot days, to accompany fresh strawberries or peaches. Avoid very sweet desserts!

Bera Canelli Moscato d’Asti 2021, $23.35 (13913440), 5.5% (currently available online, in outlets starting July 24)

Laying down: to drink