Affordable: very well put together
Montepulciano is one of the most cultivated grape varieties in Italy. It is a variety that ripens late; it is mainly found in the center and south of the country. It is the main grape variety of the Abruzzo region, where it originates. It produces very great wines, but also many simple wines. Many are very ordinary, but some stand out for their good value, like this one. The nose is rather understated, earthy, rooty, with a base of cherry, plum and an animal edge. Very dry, with a nice fruity shine, it shows substance and consistency in the mouth, with lots of freshness and light but firm tannins. Not very complex, it is nevertheless tasty and made for the table, where it will be very versatile: spaghetti bolognese, of course, but also meatball stew and meat pie.
Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2020, $16.80 (10863774), 13.5%
Aging: 1 to 3 years
Classic: tasty and very easy to drink
Despite a trying vintage – frosts and hail destroyed much of the harvest – the Breton family produced a delicious, very classic Vouvray. The Cuvée La Dilettante, made from 100% Chenin Blanc, offers all the juicy and fruity character of the grape variety. Hyper appetizing on the nose, with aromas of pear, yellow apple and some notes reminiscent of hay and beeswax, it offers a round and fruity mouth, but also very tonic, with an invigorating freshness. Very light tannins and pretty bitterness add relief and prolong the finish. It is ideal for an aperitif, but it also shows substance and will be at its place at the table: fish in sauce, in a crust or in a terrine, crab, lobster, minced poultry with cream, oysters au gratin with sabayon from cider.
Catherine and Pierre Breton Épaulé Jeté Cuvée La Dilettante Vouvray 2021, $23.65 (12103411), 13%, organic
Aging: 2 to 4 years
Classic: surprising despite its name
Dolcetto ripens much earlier than Nebbiolo and Barbera. The Sandrone family cultivates it on the highest parts of the hills of the Alba region, where the nebbiolo does not ripen. It is a grape variety that gives very fruity and very dry wines, and this one is no exception. Very aromatic, it opens with a dazzling fruitiness, with accents of blackberry, bramble and kirsch. Notes of tea, black earth and violet bring complexity. Despite its name of “little sweet”, it surprises with a dense and concentrated material. The palate is powerful, but also fresh and tonic, still framed by firm tannins, which crumble on the finish. Pour into a carafe and serve with grilled or braised red meats.
Luciano Sandrone Dolcetto d’Alba 2021, $25.75 (10456440), 13.5%
Aging: 2 to 4 years