This text is part of the special section Professions and careers
Beyond the bucolic image, viticulture has many challenges.
First, let’s distinguish between winegrower and winegrower. “Winegrower is really the job of a producer-owner of his farm, who works the vines and the transformation of the grapes into wine, therefore the cultivation of the vines for winemaking,” explains Jérémie d’Hauteville, oenology consultant. for OenoQuébec. A winegrower, theoretically, is the one who will work the field and the vines to obtain the grapes. »
The wine industry in Quebec is barely half a century old. Over the past decade, the quality of wines produced in the province has made giant leaps. “It’s an industry in full development,” says Mr. d’Hauteville. It has challenges, but it’s more bright than dark. She is developping. There is consumer loyalty, local production and the fact that we are increasingly trying to favor shorter circuits and quality products. »
However, the challenges remain numerous. “There is the agronomic side and the climate. Fall and spring frosts can wipe out production. Marketing and regulation are also challenges. » Certain rules should also, according to him, be updated. “Marketing with the state monopoly that is the SAQ has its advantages and disadvantages,” believes Mr. d’Hauteville.
“Many come with a dream and a passion, but some will realize that it is a profession in its own right,” he continues. When we make corn, we sell the grain and that’s it. Whereas in the case of grapes, there is processing. It takes time and money. »
Taste, too. “In an industry that has become solidified and structured, we have no room for error,” believes the expert. From the first production, we must already convince. […] It takes time to build loyalty. With bad wines, it’s impossible. »
Mutual aid, the key to success?
There is no typical path that leads to viticulture. “There are several profiles. There is the entrepreneur, who has another activity and who decides to launch into the vineyard because he already has land and can seek out specialized resources. » Jérémie d’Hauteville mentions, for example, agronomy and oenology advisors.
According to him, supervision and the network are among the essential elements for success. If, a few decades ago, a certain competition could be felt, today, mutual aid helps to pull everyone to the top. “Looking for mentors, godparents, who will pass on a lot of information on a practical level, allows you to get off on the right foot. »
Another challenge for winemakers is to think about the future of their business as early as possible. “When you start at 50-55 years old and the result arrives ten years later, you already have to think about succession,” he maintains. The first generations, those who started around thirty or forty years ago, have the challenge of passing it on to the family, to the children. “In my opinion, the industry will only grow and increase, but that doesn’t mean it will happen easily. »
He recommends that anyone starting out in the field become a member of a winegrowers’ association, in addition to being supervised. “It is important to be supervised at the viticultural and winemaking level and, thanks to this supervision, to have a planting strategy. You need to know what type of grape variety you want to plant, and have a business plan that ideally looks relatively far into the future, five or even ten years later. »
The grouping of winegrowers into an association also made it possible to demonstrate the viability and vitality of the industry. “The equipment has nothing to do with that of around fifty years ago, both in the vineyard and in the cellar,” observes Mr. d’Hauteville. The equipment is very efficient whereas before, it was a bit artisanal. »
The consumer has also changed. “He is waiting to taste the new vintages. There is always education work to be done, but people no longer say “I’m buying a bottle to encourage you”. »
And what about climate change? “You might think that soon our climate will be similar to that of the Mediterranean zone in Quebec, but we are not there yet. »
This content was produced by the Special Publications team at Duty, relating to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part.