Wine storage | To wait or not to wait?

Wine collectors share the same virtue: patience. However, as the years pass and the bottles accumulate, many end up worrying that they have waited too long and that the wine is no longer good. Is it possible that his passion is turning sour? It’s all a question of taste.

On Chemin Saint-Louis in Quebec, at the foot of the bridges, the Michelangelo restaurant is unmissable with its Italian-inspired architecture. The building is imposing, but its wine cellar is even more so.

The owner, Nicola Cortina, started his collection in 1974. He now has between 20,000 and 25,000 bottles.

“I never counted them,” he admits.

In the crates, the big names of Italian vineyards are piled up: Sassicaia, Masseto, Luce. A little further away, the must-sees of Bordeaux, such as Petrus, Margaux and Château Mouton Rothschild, are proudly displayed. The oldest wine in the cellar is a 1961 Barolo.

“It’s better to invest here than on the stock market,” assures Mr. Cortina. A bottle of Masseto is worth $936, but I could sell it for over $1800. »

Do its customers in Quebec have the means to afford these great wines, some of which cost several thousand dollars? Rarely, admits the owner. However, he is not afraid of seeing his wines deteriorate over the years.

According to him, the success of a long and successful aging lies in the conservation conditions.

“Everything is kept at a constant temperature of 13 to 14 degrees and humidity of 70%,” he says. People believe that a basic wardrobe can do the trick. But no ! »

Mr. Cortina only invests in wines from prestigious estates. It thus ensures growth in value and storage potential. In the cellar of the establishment’s dining room, 4,000 more affordable bottles are for sale more quickly.

Better early than never

In the Laurentians, the Estérel hotel is renowned for its wine cellar, some of the 17,000 bottles of which come from the collection of former restaurateur Champlain Charest. The establishment has another vision. Every Friday, he offers a grand cru by the glass for around fifty dollars. The hotel prefers to sell its prestigious vintages now rather than lose them.

There are only 900 left of the 5,000 bottles from the Champlain cellar purchased by Estérel in 2013. For several months, Mr. Raby has observed that connoisseurs from elsewhere in Canada are arriving to treat themselves to old vintages.

This observation does not surprise the founder of Alfred Technologies, Guy Doucet. His company specializes in the management of wine and spirits cellars. Founded in Quebec, it operates in the rest of the country as well as in the United States.

However, the collectors did not drink it all. And they don’t always have the desire, or the time, to open the 1995 Petrus, paid a few hundred dollars at the time, whose value today stands at more than $4,000. Some prefer to sell them through auctioneers or authorized platforms like Alfred.

The sale of wine between Alfred customers has increased by 400% since 2022. The company, however, refuses to sell bottles after the “optimal tasting period”, established by artificial intelligence.

“Not a month goes by without us having a client who realizes that a significant portion of their collection has reached the end of its life several years ago,” says Mr. Doucet. He then asks us to throw everything away. »

Just like Mr. Cortina, Guy Doucet recommends being vigilant and preserving in the long term only the greatest vintages from good years.

The taste of old wines

Over time, the acidity of the whites fades. The tannins of the reds are less present. Notes of fresh fruit give way to aromas of greenery and mushrooms. While some people appreciate this development, others are disappointed.

François Raby assures us, however, that appreciating old vintages is a taste that develops.

To avoid disappointment, the expert advises buying a minimum of three copies of each wine that you put in the cellar and checking the aging potential over time. The first can be opened three years after purchase, the second after five or six, then if the taste is still satisfactory, the third can be opened after 10 years. This takes more than patience, it takes discipline.

In the Michelangelo basement, Nicola Cortina looks at the thousands of bottles in front of him. Other orders will be added to the collection shortly.

“My children tell me to sell everything, but I can’t. It’s part of the soul of the restaurant,” he confides.

And probably a little of his own.

Three bottles to cellar

Greater Tuscany

The Moretti family purchased Tenuta Sette Ponti in Tuscany in 1951. From the start, they set themselves the objective of producing wines that would age at an affordable price. This is how she created the Crognolo vintage. Mainly made with sangiovese, it has a deep ruby ​​color. Its nose reveals aromas of cherry, plum, and subtle notes of undergrowth complete the bouquet. On the palate, the crisp attack reminds us that the wine is still young. Its solid tannins will allow this 2020 vintage to evolve brilliantly, probably for 15 years.

Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo Toscana 2020, $29.95

Bordeaux, differently

In the Bordeaux region, the reputation of Château Le Puy is well established. The popular Japanese series Drops of God also mentioned his wine in his manga. In 2016, the Amoreau family purchased the neighboring property, Closerie Saint-Roc. In this new vineyard, she applies the same philosophy of respect for the soil and the environment. The 2019 vintage is a blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. But above all, it brings together grapes from all the plots of the property. After 24 months of aging in casks, the wine opens with aromas of blackberry, blueberry and blackcurrant. Then, the scents of violet and cinnamon are found in a palate with invigorating acidity which will allow the wine to age for a long time. This vintage is a beautiful introduction to the range whose finesse and elegance increase with the price.

Closerie Saint-Roc 2019, $49.75

New world

There’s no doubt, Riesling-based whites can age. The Les Ecaillers 2014 vintage from the Alsatian estate Léon Beyer will convince the skeptics. Those produced 6,000 km from Alsace, in the Seneca Lake region, in New York State, also have the tension and elegance to stand the test of time. French winemaker Louis Barruol is convinced of this. He founded the Forge Cellars estate 15 years ago. He produces 13 different Rieslings, from as many terroirs. All are vinified in neutral oak barrels during the same period. In the glass, the difference is striking! The Classique vintage is a blend of some of these 13 Rieslings. “It’s the most important wine for me,” says his partner Rick Rainey. This wine demonstrates our potential. » Ultra saline on the palate, long and expressing notes of ripe fruit, to be seen again in 2029.

Forge Riesling Finger Lakes Classic 2019, $32.25