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With the drought, producers of labeled cheeses were unable to fulfill the conditions of the specifications of their label. They asked for temporary exemptions, but in the long term the criteria could change.
In France, 1,183 products are labeled AOP, AOC, IGP or Label rouge. These appellations respect a specification, but, in 2022, certain criteria could not be respected due to the drought. This is the case for Salers cheese, whose specifications stipulate that the cows must be fed 75% with grass. Its production was stopped this summer, while manufacturing normally takes place from April 15 to November 15. “If it rains quickly, we may be able to resume at the end of September.“, says Stéphanie Gardes, farmer, GAEC de Vézac (Dordogne).
In the Loire, the fourme de Montbrison is also concerned. The taste of the cheese could change with a difference in the feed of the cows. Temporary derogations from the specifications are possible, but the Minister of Agriculture, Marc Fesneau, believes that the appellations will have to rethink them, since they were established before climate change. The INAO, the institute that issues these designations, is considering adapting the specifications.