This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
Looking for memorable wine tourism trips? The region of Napa, California is a must, as much for its wines as for its bucolic charm, its rich history and its well-developed activities.
The year it all started
American wines were greatly underestimated by world critics before the 1970s. Then the Judgment of Paris, on May 24, 1976, changed the situation forever. This contest in the form of a blind tasting, in which nine French judges from high wine-growing circles took part, brought together Californian and French wines, made from Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. The jury announced its two favorites, Californians, and the surprise was total! The story went around the world.
For wine lovers, coming to Napa is a necessary pilgrimage to taste the best American Cabernet Sauvignon, the favorite land of this grape variety, and learn about the history of this viticulture at the same time. In Napa, wine is where everything starts and ends.
Date with history
This small wine-growing region, barely 50 kilometers long, conquered, nearly 200 years earlier, European settlers attracted by the diversity of soils and microclimates to cultivate vines there. It is still possible to visit, by reservation, some of these historic vineyards.
Charles Krug Winery: the oldest vineyard still in operation. In 1861, Charles Krug, of German origin, came to settle in the Napa Valley to found a vineyard there. He quickly became the father of quality wine production in the region. The Mondavi family then bought this estate in 1943 and, for more than 75 years and four generations, they have continued the tradition of producing premium quality wines. Their Cabernet Sauvignons, under the Charles Krug label, have won several distinctions.
In the vineyard, you can visit the tasting room which dates from 1882. In the main building, which also serves as a cellar, you can taste delicious pizzas in the wood oven and homemade charcuterie. You can also attend musical performances at the vineyard.
Inglenook: from tradition to modernity. In 1879, Captain Gustave Niebaum, a wine enthusiast who had made his fortune in the fur trade, acquired land in Napa to turn it into a vineyard. He built a castle there and called his estate Inglenook. This estate survived prohibition and even produced a Cabernet Sauvignon which received the mention of “wine of the century”.
In 1975, director Francis Ford Coppola bought part of the vineyard and the Niebaum-Coppola brand was launched. Coppola would buy out the entire property in 1995 and relaunch the brand with the original name, Inglenook. You can visit the historic castle and taste the famous Rubicon wine, accompanied by local cheeses.
Beringer Family Estate: magnificent remains. This vineyard is the oldest to have been in continuous operation for nearly 147 years. During prohibition, all the vineyards had to cease their activities, but not that of the Beringer brothers, since they kept the right to produce mass wine. Today, the vineyard is no longer owned by the family, but the original buildings are still there, including the magnificent Victorian house dating from 1884 and once owned by Frederick Beringer. The Rhine House is now used for tastings.
You can also visit the historic cellars and soak up the charm of yesteryear while crossing magnificent gardens. The house wines have earned a reputation for excellence. Some have even received the distinction of best white and red wine by the magazine Wine Spectator.
On the way to modernity
Robert Mondavi Winery: a complete experience. Robert Mondavi grew up in the Charles Krug vineyard, acquired by his parents. In 1966, he left the company to create his own cellar with the desire to create world-class wines. He chooses To Kalon Vineyard for his vineyard. On the magnificent property, they produce a reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, an exceptional wine that obtained 97 out of 100 on James Suckling’s score, as well as a magnificent reserve smoked white.
Before selling his vineyard, Robert Mondavi (now deceased) was able to develop the wine tourism side. It is one of the few vineyards to have a restaurant. A French chef prepares refined dishes to accompany the flagship wines of the house. In addition to the restaurant, there are guided tours of the vineyard and cellar, commented tastings, several works of art to contemplate, as well as a magnificent boutique.
Caymus and Caymus-Suisun: two avant-garde vineyards. One of the best-known winemakers today is certainly Chuck Wagner with his Caymus Vineyards wines. He is considered one of the main players in the revival of Napa wines, with a modern vision highlighting the king grape of the region, Cabernet Sauvignon. The reviews of Wine Spectator have twice given it the “Wine of the Year”, the best wine in the world!
He founded his vineyard with his parents in 1972, and comes from a long line of winemakers in Napa, who have been growing vines since 1850. Today his children, Jenny and Charlie, follow the same path and work on the family project, a vineyard founded ten years ago in Suisun Valley, about forty minutes southeast of Napa.
You can visit the two vineyards and taste the iconic wines of the Wagner Family Wines while taking a seat on magnificent terraces under umbrellas, surrounded by gardens and palm trees.
JCB Collection + Raymond’s Vineyards: the show business and the wines. The Napa Valley has attracted French winegrowers who have decided to invest there in order to produce wines with fewer restrictions than in the AOCs of Burgundy, for example. This is the case of Jean-Charles Boisset, a Burgundian who thinks big and has a sense of marketing! He took over the Raymond family vineyard and made it a place where multisensory experiences, artistic works and a nature interpretation center intertwine. The wines are distinguished by their elegance and some are produced biodynamically.
Not stopping there in his conquest of the Americas, the winemaker founded JCB Collection, a brand of prestigious wines, where he can give free rein to his passion for parties, luxury, and jewelry! Its links with the show business inspired him to create collections of unique wines presented in bottles set with jewels.
You have to take a trip to the JCB Village, where many lounges, bars and private rooms await you to taste the finest cuvées from this cellar and to party, in environments worthy of Hollywood!
Domaine Chandon: French heritage. Founded in 1973 by Robert-Jean de Vogüé and John Wright, Chandon is one of the first French sparkling wine companies in the United States. Their cuvées are all produced using the Champagne method. Here, the French tradition rubs shoulders with the American way of life.
Their estate is located in an enchanting setting, surrounded by bucolic gardens. Equipped with a gourmet restaurant that offers menus paired with wines, the place also has a cocktail bar, a gift shop, a magnificent outdoor terrace and lounges for tastings. There are many events and activities there.
You can book for a picnic by choosing a bottle and a box grating and then settle down, under a parasol or in a cabana, in the estate’s gardens. Refined, the brut or rosé sparkling wines are a must. For an enhanced experience, the “Tête de Cuvée” is the top-of-the-range sparkling wine. The house also produces red wines, including an excellent Cabernet Sauvignon.
Don’t miss: the rest of this visit to the Napa Valley estates in next week’s Plaisirs notebook.