Veja, a leader in sustainable sneakers, recently held an event in Paris during Fashion Week, emphasizing ethical shoemaking and the solidarity economy. Founded in 2005, Veja prioritizes transparency and fair trade, sourcing materials like natural rubber and organic cotton at premium rates. The brand’s innovative practices include developing eco-friendly materials and promoting sneaker repair. With a focus on style and sustainability, Veja continues to expand its production in Europe while maintaining a commitment to responsible fashion.
Veja: Pioneering Sustainable Sneakers
In early September, over 500 individuals, including journalists, influencers, employees, and representatives from luxury and professional federations, gathered at Veja’s Paris headquarters. This event, held amidst the glamorous Fashion Week, focused on shoemaking, alterations, and the broader concept of the solidarity economy. This gathering highlighted the allure of Veja, a brand that has revolutionized the sustainable sneaker industry. As it competes with major sports brands, Veja emphasizes its commitment to sustainability in every product.
A Journey of Ethical Fashion
For nearly two decades, Veja has emerged as a guiding light in the fashion and accessories sector, without ever boasting about it. “Since launching our first pair in 2005, we have seen our growth multiply, but we never let it become our sole focus,” shares Sébastien Kopp, co-founder alongside François-Ghislain Morillion. Today, Veja employs 550 people, with a significant presence in France, alongside operations in Brazil and New York. The brand achieved an impressive turnover of 270 million euros in 2023, selling over 4 million pairs of sneakers, all while maintaining its status as a limited liability company without external funding.
When Veja first launched, few anticipated the blend of sneakers and ecology. The brand’s founders, who were disenchanted after a social audit in China, sought to promote transparency and ethical practices within the industry. Inspired by their findings, they named their brand Veja, meaning “to look” in Portuguese, and set out to create “well-made” shoes that prioritize both quality materials and social justice. Their mission was to challenge the traditional sneaker market, which is often associated with environmental harm and labor exploitation.
Veja’s initial steps focused on sourcing raw materials sustainably. They obtain natural rubber from the Amazon and organic cotton from Brazil and Peru, paying prices significantly higher than market rates to ensure fair compensation for producers. Over the years, their network has dramatically expanded, increasing their organic cotton suppliers from 22 to 1,700 and rubber producers from 26 to 2,500. “We highlighted the absurd practices prevalent in the industry, such as pesticide use in cotton farming and modern slavery in subcontracted labor. Instead of merely condemning these practices like some NGOs, we proposed viable alternatives,” explains Sébastien Kopp.
In addition to ethical sourcing, Veja embraces technical innovation. To cater to runners and hikers, they developed B-Mesh, an alternative to petroleum-based polyester, made from recycled plastic bottles, and CWL, a leather alternative crafted from cotton coated with corn starch and castor oil. This commitment to sustainability comes at a price, with production costs for a Veja sneaker being five times higher than those made in China. However, the founders have found ways to economize; they avoid traditional advertising, which can account for up to 70% of a product’s price, and produce limited quantities to minimize excess stock.
Veja has also forged partnerships with various designers and labels, acknowledging that many customers prioritize style over sustainability. Collaborations with notable fashion houses such as Marni and Rick Owens, as well as emerging creators like Amélie Pichard, enable Veja to remain relevant in the competitive fashion landscape. With their models priced between 120 and 180 euros, Veja occupies a niche of understated luxury. “There has always been a balance between environmentally conscious customers and those who value aesthetics more. In challenging economic times, consumers may prioritize price over production ethics,” Kopp notes.
Expanding Production and Repair Initiatives
To further enhance sustainability, Veja has shifted part of its production to Europe, specifically Portugal, as part of its Aegean Project aimed at reducing its carbon footprint. This initiative allows Veja to tap into Portugal’s rich manufacturing heritage while also benefiting from shared linguistic ties with Brazil. Currently, four models are produced in Portugal for the European market, while Brazil continues to supply other regions. However, the brand faces changes in leadership, as they recently parted ways with General Director Laure Browne, who had played a crucial role in expanding the company’s retail network.
Veja has also taken steps to promote sneaker repair, well before the implementation of the Agec law aimed at encouraging circular economies. The brand opened its first hybrid location in Bordeaux in 2020 to initiate its recycling efforts and recognized the necessity of establishing a network of specialized repair services. Dedicated repair spaces have since opened in cities like Berlin, Madrid, and Brooklyn, along with a location in Paris’s 10th arrondissement, where customers can have their Veja shoes repaired alongside other brands. While the average repair cost is around 30 euros, a complete refurbishment can go up to 60 euros. Over the last four years, Veja has cemented its commitment to sustainability and responsible fashion practices.