Twickenham, the stadium built on a cabbage field that has become a temple of world rugby

The largest rugby stadium in Europe, Twickenham has built up, over more than a century of history, the reputation of the temple of rugby in the northern hemisphere and in the world.

82,000 seats, four vertical stands and the nickname “Home of Rugby”. On behalf of the 4th day of the Six Nations Tournament, England receives the XV of France, Saturday March 10, on its legendary ground of Twickenham. A stadium more than a century old, which has become, through its history, its unique atmosphere and its constant modernization, a veritable cathedral of oval rugby.

Built on former farmland where cabbages were planted, in 1908, Twickenham grew alone in the middle of the English countryside, several dozen kilometers west of the heart of London. Far from Crystal Palace, where the national team was previously hosted, the English federation (RFU) had then bet on developing its own land to install its headquarters and generate its own income. “Twickenham was immediately considered a temple of rugby because it was a major and historic building in the development of its sport”says Christopher Jones, English journalist and author of The Secret Life of Twickenham.

A unique atmosphere

The enclosure, quickly adopted by supporters and rugby fans, has earned its reputation in particular thanks to its special atmosphere. When you enter, you feel the weight of history, in the country that invented this sport”remembers Dimitri Yachvili, former French international and France Télévisions consultant. “There is a certain atmosphere, not necessarily the most hostile, but marked by the weight of tradition.” From the first stands almost glued to the lawn to the latest renovation which increased the capacity to 82,076 seats, the public has always been an integral part of the match.

“The stadium has been built very steeply, so the noise falls from the very top towards the lawn. The players love playing here, because the atmosphere is very warm, the public is involved throughout the game.”

Christopher Jones

at franceinfo: sport

The atmosphere even begins well before the start of the XV de la Rose matches. For years, the legend of Twickenham has also been written on its car parks. “People would arrive hours early and gather, eat lunch and drink together, as there aren’t many pubs around”, remembers Christopher Jones. From now on, the pre-match takes place in an organized fan-zone, with concerts, stands and animations, to bring up this very special atmosphere.

English and worldwide reference

Twickenham has also become a functional and technological temple to rugby. Over the past 115 years, the stadium has continued to evolve and modernize to stay at the forefront. High-tech locker rooms, lawns groomed daily in the face of the threat of fox attacks… Today, England internationals find all the technology and resources they need there. “There is a full medical team to take care of them. They even have a dentist, should a player ever have a tooth problem during a match!”assures Christopher Jones.

Temple of all rugby, Twickenham hosts the home matches of the XV de la Rose, but also the Premiership final (English championship at XV), even some regular season matches. It also hosts 13-a-side rugby, and a stage of the 7-a-side world circuit. But over its century of history, the stadium has also become a cathedral of Oval at world level. Twickenham is thus the venue that has hosted the most World Cup matches (20). It also boasts eight of the top twenty attendances in the history of the competition, more than any other stadium.

The green square in west London, however, has never been too successful for the XV of France, which has won only eleven times in 115 years. “It’s a particular context, there is always a little pressure around this stadium and around this match”, recalls Dimitri Yachvili. To win a victory in English lands that has eluded them since 2007, the Blues will necessarily have to become masters of the temple.


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