Still in the spirit of the Holidays, I’m offering sparkling wines again this week, but this time 100% Quebec! Many local wines are sold at the SAQ, but even more can be found in the network of delicatessens and wine merchants. The first two are in the branches of the crown corporation and the other is on the shelves of various merchants, who offer many of the most sought-after Quebec wines. I particularly appreciate these three bottles because they are true expressions of our terroir.
Fresh and bright
“Experience has taught us that healthy grapes require a minimum of intervention in the cellar,” reads the Domaine Bergeville website. This explains the exceptional work of Ève Rainville and Marc Théberge: biodynamic viticulture, enormous respect for the environment and biodiversity, as well as very natural vinification. They have made sparkling wines their specialty, because Quebec is indeed a real land of bubbles. Blanc Brut 2020, produced using the traditional method, enchants with its freshness and fruity radiance. Made with white and gray Frontenac, with a little Acadie, St-Pépin and a tad of Pinot, it opens with notes of yellow and green apple, white flowers and zest. Very lightly dosed, it offers a straight and tense mouth, balanced by a juicy fruity substance. A delicate mineral impression prolongs a savory finish that calls for a second glass.
Domaine Bergeville Le Blanc Brut 2020, $29.85 (13374562), 13%, organic
Aging: 3 to 5 years
A quality that continues to grow
PHOTO FROM THE SAQ WEBSITE
The Brut Orpailleur
Pioneer of viticulture in Quebec, the Vignoble de l’Orpailleur celebrates its 40th anniversary. Quebec wines are popular today, but things were different for many years. The work accomplished by the Orpailleur teams, their perseverance and their determination have played a key role in the development of viticulture in Quebec. Let us highlight this important contribution with one of the very first sparkling wines from Quebec, whose quality has continued to grow since its first version in 1991. Seyval and Vidal make up this cuvée, produced according to the traditional method with an aging period of 18 months. A very delicate nose announces its northern character with aromas of flowering fields, herbs and sweet hay which mingle with those of pear and yellow apple. The mouth is fresh and tonic, carried by fine and persistent bubbles, and delicate notes of brioche on the finish.
L’Orpailleur Brut, $30.50 (12685625), 12%
Aging: 3 to 5 years
It wakes up the taste buds!
PHOTO FROM THE EN ROUE LIBRE WEBSITE
Freewheeling Pet Nat 2021
En Roue Libre is the personal project of Geneviève Thisdel, vineyard manager at Les Bacchantes vineyard in Hemmingford. Its wines, produced in very small quantities, are offered in certain wine merchants and delicatessens, but there are some everywhere in the province. Its pet nat is a model of the genre: all the lightness, fruitiness and drinkability desired, without any of the flaws that too often confuse this style of wine. Made entirely with Vidal, it offers a very fresh and spring-like nose, with accents of green apple, citrus fruits and white flowers, which immediately puts a smile on your face. Very dry on the palate, tonic and smart, while enveloping the mouth with a very pretty fruity substance, carried by a gentle effervescence. Full of vitality, with a crystalline finish on notes of green apple.
En Roue Libre Pet Nat 2021, from $35 to $37 (delicatessens), 11%
Laying down: to drink