Demand for Quebec wines has jumped in recent years. The prices too. This cost is explained by higher production costs and the growing popularity of local products, explain the winegrowers.
Rue Ontario Est, in Montreal, the Vinologue boutique has specialized in the sale of Quebec wines since 2017. It is not uncommon for the owner David Deschênes to be questioned about the price of the bottles.
“It’s like cheese from Quebec,” he says. They are good, but people often say that they are too expensive. ”
PHOTO MARTIN CHAMBERLAND, PRESS ARCHIVES
A trio of Pervenches wines, in Farnham
Cyril Kerel represents several estates in Quebec, including Les Pervenches in Farnham. The import agent visits wine regions all over the world and finds that the challenges for producers here are particularly great.
The Quebec winegrower, the one who owns his vines, his cellar, his land, has so many challenges and problems with the climatic conditions and the type of culture. It is reflected in the sale price.
Cyril Kerel, owner of the import agency La Qv
The cold winters of Quebec force the winegrowers here to protect the vines. Some bury them underground. Others cover the rows with a geotextile membrane. In either case, this work increases production costs. As a result, each bottle costs a little more to produce.
According to data collected by the Conseil des vins du Québec (CVQ), nearly half of the province’s vineyards have less than three hectares of vines. The smaller the domains, the more difficult it is to achieve economies of scale.
The rules in force also require that each vineyard has its own wine-growing equipment. The press is only used two weeks a year and costs over $ 40,000!
According to Martin Laroche, winemaker at Domaine Le Grand Saint-Charles, the very high cost of starting a vineyard also influences the price of Quebec wine.
PHOTO MARTIN TREMBLAY, PRESS ARCHIVES
Martin Laroche, winemaker at Le Grand Saint-Charles estate
It takes a long time to make a vineyard profitable. Someone who has no fortune behind, it will be a long time to get their head out of the water. You can sell your wine for $ 17, so expect 11 years of non-profitability.
Martin Laroche, winemaker at Le Grand Saint-Charles estate
PHOTO ROBERT SKINNER, PRESS ARCHIVES
Les Bacchantes vineyard, in Hemmingford
Winemaker at Les Bacchantes vineyard, Sébastien Daoust is not surprised that the price of Quebec wines is on the rise. It is, according to him, a simple question of supply and demand.
“It’s too expensive if it’s not sold,” he adds. However, the majority of winegrowers sell all their wines during the year. “
In 2020, more than 2.3 million bottles were produced in Quebec. This figure is expected to increase this year, as the 2021 harvest has been bountiful. Prices may still be on the rise, note several speakers, because the excise tax and the deposit of bottles will soon be imposed.
Three local wines to taste
All good, all white
PHOTO FROM THE SAQ WEBSITE
Union Libre UL Seyval Blanc-Vidal 2020
Below the $ 20 mark, this white from the Union Libre vineyard in Dunham has nothing to envy of foreign wines. It brings together the classic duo seyval and vidal, two hybrid varieties widespread in the province. In the glass, the floral notes are added to the aromas of pear and apple. On the palate, the attack is crunchy and saline. The whole is prolonged with a subtle bitterness. It will go perfectly with the cheese fondue.
Union Libre UL Seyval Blanc-Vidal 2020, $ 17.95 (13797979), 12%.
Consult the SAQ file
Gourmet bubbles
PHOTO FROM THE SAQ WEBSITE
L’Orpailleur Brut
The l’Orpailleur vineyard is one of the oldest estates in Quebec. This is why the majority of its bottles are often very accessible. Its sparkling wine is however more expensive. The second fermentation in the bottle, like a champagne, and the aging time of almost two years explain the higher price of the wine. But the price is worth it. Under the golden dress, the scents of orange blossoms, tarte tatin and cookies fill the glass. On the taste buds, the bubbles are invigorating and extend into a gourmet finish. Along with turkey, it’s the ultimate holiday wine. Currently offered directly to the vineyard and in a few delicatessens in the province, the sparkling wine will arrive on the shelves of the SAQ on December 11.
L’Orpailleur Brut, $ 30.50 (12685625), 12%.
Consult the SAQ file
Big red
PHOTO FROM THE SAQ WEBSITE
Vineyard Côte des Limousins Limousin 2019
Chantal Gareau and Bernard Brodeur once raised Limousin cows on the hill overlooking the Choinière reservoir, near Yamaska National Park. The couple now cultivate the vines according to the rules of organic farming and their red deconstructs several myths about local wines. Based on Sabrevois and Frontenac, the wine is fruity and a little full-bodied. Its notes of sweet spices come from aging in oak barrels and they are well balanced. He will make a splash with the cipaille.
2019 Côte des Limousins Limousin vineyard, $ 23.50 (14590371), 12%.
Consult the SAQ file