A well-deserved tribute, a royal cuvée and a movement that aims to rediscover the taste of wine of 150 years ago: there is no shortage of wine news at the start of the year. Here are some news and suggestions to quench your thirst… for knowledge.
Posted at 4:00 p.m.
It sparkles in England
The English sparkling wine has just won its letters of nobility. To highlight the 70and anniversary of her accession to the throne, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II’s official boutique, The Royal Collection Shop, has put a special cuvée on sale. The sparkling wine is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, the same trio as in Champagne. The bubbles are produced by the prestigious Gusbourne estate, whose vines are located in Kent and West Sussex, two regions located in the south of the country in which viticulture is in full development. Royal Collection Trust assistant press officer Lily Spicer was unable to say how many bottles were produced. In an email sent to The Pressshe nevertheless argues that “wine will continue to be produced according to demand throughout the Platinum Jubilee year”.
It’s not the first time the Queen has put her name on a bubble tag. She owns vines in the gardens of Windsor Castle. The rare bottles produced are marketed by the English merchant Laithwaite’s. The Platinum Jubilee Cuvée is available online for £39, or over $67 CDN. Residents of the UK, Germany, New Zealand and Australia can buy online, but Canadians cannot. The SAQ confirms that it did not order this product.
The queen is not the only one to believe in the potential of English sparkling wine. The Spanish cava giant Freixenet has just bought the Bolney estate, in the Sussex region. The vineyard has a magnificent terrace overlooking the vines and a renowned restaurant. Interesting detail: several of its wines are made with hybrids.
Very old vines
PHOTO FROM THE SAQ WEBSITE
Altamente Jumilla 2020
150 years ago, the vineyards of Europe were practically wiped out by an aphid that arrived from America, phylloxera. Faced with this unprecedented crisis, winegrowers had to adapt their techniques. They grafted the grape varieties to American vines so that the plants resist this aphid. A few rare vines have not experienced this fate and a group of winegrowers wants to protect them. Producers from several countries have recently created the “Francs de pied” project, which aims to identify wines from non-grafted vines. The group also wishes to register the free-standing vines as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and, in a way, rediscover the taste of “pre-phylloxera” wine. The project is ambitious, because many wine regions and countries prohibit cultivation without rootstocks.
Curious to taste a free-standing wine? This red from Spain is probably the cheapest you will find. It is produced in the Jumilia region and part of the vines are centenarians and not grafted. The secret: the vines are planted in soil composed of sand, an environment hostile to phylloxera. In the glass, the aromas of black fruits typical of the Monastrell grape are inviting. On the palate, we discover a full-bodied and spicy red whose power is supported by a remarkable freshness that comes from the altitude where the vines are located. A ray of sunshine to end the winter in style.
Altamente Jumilla 2020, $14.85 (13632365), 14%, organic
A keepsake drink
PHOTO FROM THE SAQ WEBSITE
Tawse Chardonnay 2019
The Tawse Estate is a must-see on the Niagara Peninsula. The vineyard is in mourning following the death of its winemaker, Paul Pender, on February 4th. Media from around the world have celebrated the contribution of this pioneer of Ontario viticulture, highlighting in passing the irreproachable quality of his wines. To pay homage to it, we are rediscovering this classic Chardonnay. The 2019 harvest was not easy in Niagara with lots of rain and hail in July. But the quality is there with notes of pear, flowers and subtly woody notes, which will go wonderfully with grilled chicken.
Tawse Chardonnay 2019, $19.35 (11039736), $13