Bethlehem’s Christmas tourism has suffered significantly for the second year due to ongoing conflict, leading to severe economic distress among residents. Iconic establishments, like the Afteem restaurant, face drastic revenue drops, compounding high unemployment rates. The festive spirit is nearly absent, with traditional celebrations and parades canceled. Locals express deep concern for family members in Gaza as violence escalates, further diminishing hope and community resilience in this historically rich but now struggling city.
Bethlehem’s Christmas Tourism Faces Devastating Impact from Ongoing Conflict
In the heart of the West Bank, Bethlehem traditionally thrives on Christmas tourism. However, for the second consecutive year, this cherished celebration is overshadowed by the ongoing war, leaving residents grappling with severe economic ramifications and deep concerns for their family members in Gaza.
One of the most iconic establishments in Bethlehem, the Afteem restaurant, is located near the Church of the Nativity at Manger Square. Renowned for serving the finest falafel in the city, the restaurant typically buzzes with visitors enjoying delicious hummus, kebabs, and refreshing mint lemonade. Yet this winter, the festive sounds of carols and culinary excitement have been replaced by the solitary noise of a vacuum cleaner.
Owner Jaqueline Salameh expresses her dismay, stating, “Bethlehem thrives on olive wood crafts, the Church of the Nativity, and the Christmas spirit. Sadly, we are far from feeling festive.” The only sign of celebration is a modest Christmas tree adorned with red ornaments, meant for the children, while a single string of lights hangs from the ceiling.
The Unemployment Crisis in Bethlehem
Typically, Bethlehem’s streets are filled with tourists eager to experience this sacred site, believed to be the birthplace of Jesus. Unfortunately, for the second straight year, the war in the Middle East has led to a devastating decline in tourism, crippling the primary source of income for many locals.
According to Salameh, unemployment in Bethlehem has surged to alarming levels, with half of the population currently out of work. Families can no longer afford dining out, and only occasional takeout orders for falafel pita at two euros provide any respite.
Last Christmas, the square outside the Church of the Nativity was a ghost town, and this year, the scene remains eerily similar.
Exodus from Bethlehem
Salameh’s family-run restaurant has been a beloved institution in the old town since 1948, but now, she reports an astonishing 80 percent drop in revenue. To keep the business afloat, employees have agreed to forgo half their salaries.
Many Palestinians throughout the occupied West Bank are enduring a similar plight. The Palestinian Central Bureau of Statistics indicates that unemployment in the region has risen to nearly 35 percent amid escalating poverty and dwindling opportunities, prompting an increasing number of residents to leave.
Since the escalation of violence on October 7, the frequency of attacks by Israeli settlers in the West Bank has surged, further exacerbating the dire situation.
The Diminished Christmas Spirit
Outside, the atmosphere in front of the Church of the Nativity is subdued. Usually adorned with festive decorations, including a grand Christmas tree and bustling stalls, this year only a handful of vendors offer coffee and corn on the cob from their carts, struggling to attract customers.
Elias Boulus, a young member of the Shepherd Scouts drumming group from nearby Beit Sahour, laments the absence of the traditional Christmas parade, which has been canceled this year. He recalls the joy of singing and drumming, retracing the path taken by Mary and Joseph.
Concern for Family in Gaza
Boulus reflects on the harsh realities brought about by the conflict, stating, “This shouldn’t be just a parking lot, but the war has transformed it into one. We survive day by day.” Like many others, he has family in Gaza and is haunted by the suffering around him. With relatives lost to airstrikes and a lack of medical aid, he often seeks solace at the Church of the Nativity.
Inside, the fragrant incense hangs in the air as Boulus descends to the Nativity grotto, where a star marks the spot believed to be Jesus’ manger. This normally bustling area now stands nearly empty, with only a solitary nun praying on the cold stone floor.
A Solitary Reflection in the Church of the Nativity
“I find hope in this quiet place,” Boulus shares, appreciating the opportunity for reflection amid the chaos outside. Unfortunately, a recent rocket launch from Yemen toward Tel Aviv has only added to the anxiety in the region.
Abud, a souvenir seller near the church, expresses his frustration as he sells handmade Palestinian items primarily to reporters rather than tourists. “Since October 7, 2023, our situation has worsened dramatically,” he notes, adding that many perceive the area as too dangerous to visit. “Colleagues have closed their shops, and aside from journalists, we see no one.”
At the end of a long day, Abud has sold just one scarf, a stark reminder of the challenges facing Bethlehem’s tourism-dependent economy.