“We’ve all been through this with friends. We say to ourselves: “We should do this, we should do that!” And we never talk about it again. The others, they say “we should do that” and they do it! »
These words from the late wine consultant Michel Beauchamp are a good illustration of the effervescence of Quebec alcohol producers. Like a band of revolutionaries, microbrewers, winegrowers and microdistillers want to follow their passions and get out of the game, thereby changing the Quebec landscape. This dynamism is embodied in the documentary series thirst for revolution presented from March 15 on Historia. The duty spoke with director and screenwriter Nicolas Houde-Sauvé.
Beyond your personal interest in local alcohols, what reasons led you to propose this documentary series?
It had been on my mind for a long time and I thought things lined up well. When my mother or my aunt begin to understand that something is happening in the world of alcohol in Quebec, it’s because it’s real and it’s no longer a niche affair.
I’ve always been intrigued by people who have a vision and a passion. I decided to go see where things were, and the vitality of the environment amazed me! The more production progressed, the more this dynamism continued. And it continues ! We could present something even more intense than what we presented at the start, it’s so moving. My objective was to show the journey of the producers.
Is there a universe whose momentum surprised you the most?
I believe that the greatest revolution is in the world of wine. It is the least known and the most surprising. We agree, when it comes to gin and beer, we have everything to compete with the whole world. As far as the wines are concerned, we imagine that it is still too cold, that what we produce is too lean and acidic. When you enter this universe, you realize that we are rather in the process of creating an identity. Not everyone likes this kind of wine, and that’s okay. But compared to 15 years ago, Quebec wines really have a personality. It’s stimulating!
And then there is the whole concept from grain to bottle, as does Vincent Van Horn, head distiller at La Chaufferie, in Granby. I find it wonderful! Consumers are unaware that more than 80% of gins are flavored neutral spirits. Transforming grain into alcohol is complex and rare. I wanted to show that. Talking about this revolution makes people want to see this movement. I’m proud of the series, it has a nice pulse.
In one of the episodes, Simon Naud, from the La Bauge vineyard, says that before, he went door to door in restaurants to offer his wines, whereas now they are the ones who come to him. That too is a revolution.
Exactly. The wine industry is complex. The Société des alcools du Québec (SAQ) more or less followed suit. It’s a big machine that goes at its own pace. So it really goes more through grocers and restaurants. When we started filming, Simon was still selling bottles at the SAQ, but there are hardly any left. His organic revolution is so powerful that he now only makes natural wines that are sold in independent shops and restaurants.
How has the world of alcohol in Quebec changed the landscape?
From the start of the project, I was looking for people who had an impact on their environment. A good example is the gang of the Great Woods. These guys are fascinating! They didn’t just open a microbrewery, it’s also a performance hall. They organize events, bring the village to life [de Saint-Casimir]. That side, to put his native region on the map and create your own job, that’s typical of microbreweries. In lots of small towns, they almost replace the Tim Hortons. It becomes a meeting place, the cultural center of the village. This dynamism creates 5,000 jobs related to the brewing industry in Quebec.
We hear more and more microdistilleries crying out for help. What is the current state of affairs?
It’s a thriving business that keeps certain regions alive, but it’s tough. The margins are not big, the sale on the spot does not bring in more money. There is something wrong with the SAQ model. What has been done in the world of wine and beer, which is to make it possible to sell on site and have a better profit, has changed everything. That it’s available in convenience stores, that’s also the revolution. Spirits do not have the same standards. It’s quite a debate.
These are alcohol production projects, but on a human level, these craftsmen really have a vision and know-how. Are there too many microdistilleries? I do not believe that. There are many gins, but quality gins like those made by Claudia Doyon and Vincent Van Horne, there will always be room for it.