The wines of the week | Unique selection

Never dwell on your impressions and always revisit: this is a golden rule in the world of wine. I knew the Chakana house from Argentina more than 20 years ago. His wines were boring. What a nice surprise to discover his shift towards organic and biodynamic during a recent trip! His Sobrenatural cuvée is certainly very singular, but I much prefer a wine like this to a conventional and soulless wine, which tastes like thousands of others.

Veronique Rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

Not for all

The distribution of this wine is limited, but it is not for everyone anyway. Made from biodynamically grown grapes and made without sulphites or other inputs, it falls into the category of natural wines. Without being decked out with flaws, it is nevertheless singular. Opinions on the SAQ website last year were already very divided! Made with 80% tannat and 20% Malbec, it expresses the slightly rustic side of the first with notes of black earth and tar. The fruit, dark and ripe, with accents of liqueur, remains in the background with a little volatile acidity (smell reminiscent of felt-tip pen). In the mouth, light tannins and a grain to the texture add relief. Very dry, a little austere, it is a wine to be enjoyed with open-minded friends, around a platter of charcuterie, for a lively discussion!

Chakana Sobrenatural Lujan de Cuyo 2021, $21.55 (14,529,845) 14% Organic

Laying down: to drink

More for the table than the aperitif

This is another wine that shows a lot of character, but in a style that is still more familiar than the previous one. Made with traditional Dão, Touriga Nacional, Jaen, Tinta Roriz and Alfrocheiro grape varieties, it is moderately aromatic with notes of very ripe black fruit, black earth, dried mauve flowers and herbs, with a hint of sanguine. Very dry, with moderate but firm tannins, it combines ripe fruit and the somewhat rustic, earthy character of wines from the region. It offers a lot of complexity at this price and, above all, an impression of authenticity, of reflection of a place. It is to be tried with pork chops with pimenton, blood sausage, pasta with chorizo.

Lagar de Darei Dão 2019, $17.15 (14,988,769) 13%

Aging: 2 to 3 years

Charming and radiant

Stéphane Vedeau offers us another wine imbued with finesse and freshness. This is the signature of the Clos Bellane terroir, thanks to its vines at altitude, facing south-east on limestone soils. Made from 100% Grenache, this one comes in a pretty, very pale pink color. The nose, delicate, is very fine and charming, with notes of peach, citrus fruits, garrigue. Ripe matter gives it fullness and chewiness on the palate, then the fruit is discreet in favor of a mineral freshness. Very dry, it shows vitality and radiance and, even if it is delicious on its own, it makes you want to sit down to eat. Try it with tomato pie, pizza margarita, lamb chops with ratatouille.

Clos Bellane Côtes du Rhône Altitude Rosé 2021, $21.95 (12,513,567) 12% Organic

Aging: 1 to 2 years