The wines of the week | Multiple grape varieties, diverse wines

How many grape varieties are there? Hard to say, as many vines are also cultivated to produce fresh and dried grapes. And several countries do not have very reliable statistics. But it is certain that in the world there are around 10,000 grape varieties cultivated for the production of wine. After the fear of seeing the world invaded by cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay, today we are delighted with the multitude of cultivated grape varieties; allied to the terroir, they are the source of the great diversity of wine.

Veronique rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

A new Meinklang

Joy, lightness, simplicity: that sums up this sparkling rosé wine from Austria. Produced by the Michlits family at the Meinklang estate, well known in Quebec and always reliable, this Meinklang Prosa is made primarily from the country’s native red grape varieties: Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch and Saint-Laurent. Nothing very complex in this cuvée, but all the pleasure of simplicity: it offers aromas of field strawberries, cranberries, with some notes of dried flowers and herbs. The palate is tasty, invigorating, very light, with fine bubbles and a slight grain in the texture. Very low in alcohol, it is an ideal wine for aperitif or brunch, with a salad of Nordic shrimps, a salad of tomatoes, feta and fresh herbs, smoked salmon, or even a cold meats platter.

Meinklang Prosa Wine of Austria 2020, $ 20.40 (14651824), 10.5%, organic

Keep: to drink

Consult the SAQ file

Sicilian grape variety in relief

Grillo is a white grape variety that is widely cultivated in Sicily. It was born on the island from a cross between catarratto, another very popular indigenous grape, and Muscat of Alexandria. It is mainly found in the west of the island, where it is used in the production of Marsala wines. But it can also give dry white wines, not fortified (like those of Marsala), like this Feudo Disisa Grillo Sicilia 2019. Not very aromatic and not very fruity, the nose offers discreet notes of citrus, green apple, with a saline impression, even brine. It expresses itself more in the mouth where, despite a very reasonable alcohol level, it shows substance and relief, with a certain grain and very light bitterness. More in texture than in fruit, as can be a Muscadet or a Petit Chablis, for example. Perfect for simply grilled fish, drizzled with good olive oil.

Feudo Disisa Grillo Sicilia 2019, $ 19.75 (13675533), 12.5%

Keeping: 3 to 5 years

Consult the SAQ file

The fruity charm of the Frappato

Frappato, another grape native to Sicily, is grown mainly in the south-east of the island. It is from there, near the small village of Scoglitti, that the Frappato for this cuvée comes from. Cultivated in sandy soils, it gives here a pale, fragrant wine, which highlights all the fruity charm of the grape variety, with an alluring nose of crunchy red berries and flowers. Just as fresh and crunchy on the palate, with a hint of spices and a bright fruitiness, very cherry, this 2019 Vino Lauria Frappato Scoglitti is dry, super fresh and easy to drink. Moderate but firm tannins add depth and call for food. Served chilled, it will be very versatile at the table: cold cuts, roast chicken, grilled salmon with tomatoes, sausage and rapini pasta, pizza.

Vino Lauria Frappato Scoglitti 2019, $ 20.65 (13288630), 13%, organic

Keeping: 1 or 2 years

Consult the SAQ file