The wines of the week | Mediterranean more than good

Here are three wines from Mediterranean regions with generally hot and dry climates. Regions where the grapes are full of sugar and can give powerful wines, but also sometimes heavy. These have very ripe fruit and substance, but also show balance and freshness.

Veronique Rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

To our greatest delight

Exemplary domain of the Costières de Nîmes, Mourgues du Grès always offers us wines of a very good value for money. Les Galets Dorés, a blend of mainly white Grenache, with a little Roussanne and Vermentino, is one of those wines that expresses itself especially on the palate. The nose is restrained, with delicate notes of pear and citrus. On the palate, the wine is dry, ample, with a certain chewiness, balanced by a lot of freshness. Very nice bitters with accents of citrus peel lengthen the finish. Very harmonious, it will accompany a brandade of cod, prawns in salad or orange, a lobster roll, grilled fish with olive oil and herbs.

Château Mourgues du Grès Les Galets Dorés 2021 Costières de Nîmes, $17.70 (11095877), 13.5%, organic

Aging: 1 to 2 years

Exemplary viticulture

Years pass and are not alike. And less and less with climate change which presents many challenges for winegrowers. One thing, however, is certain: the old vines, and very sustainable viticultural practices, play an important role in their ability to resist the vagaries of the weather. This 100% Xarel-lo, from old vines, offers a sweet fruit nose, the result of high temperatures during the ripening period, with aromas of very ripe pear, even exotic fruits, and butter. But on the palate, the wine shows tension and freshness, with very light tannins that bring grain to the texture. A mineral, chalky impression stretches out on the finish. And the pretty peach color comes from a short pellicular maceration. Perfect for crab or lobster.

Els Vinyerons Lluerna Penedès 2020, $20.50 (14727243), 12%

Aging: 1 to 2 years

In perfect balance

A 15% red? Not very summery, you might say. But the balance between power and freshness is there, a sign of a good terroir and very careful viticulture. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan, Les Garrigues 2020 offers an explosive, fragrant nose, with accents of violet, raspberry, cherry, strawberry, with a few notes of spices and anise. The mouth is rich, with a caressing substance, a touch of warmth, but also a very present freshness, reminiscent of the limestone soils from which the majority of the grapes come. Light tannins add just the right amount of relief. Full-bodied, but also invigorating and with a lot of shine, it is ideal for grilling on the barbecue, and for lamb in particular.

Domaine Clavel Les Garrigues 2020 Languedoc, $23.15 (874941), 15%, organic

Aging: 2 to 3 years