Following a 28e United Nations Conference on Climate Change (COP28) marked by an agreement in favor of the “transition” towards non-fossil energies, the textile sector finds itself somewhat unwillingly in the spotlight, lit by the spotlight. a transformation to come. Currently, 70% of synthetic fibers and dyes rely on petrochemicals. These questions — and possible solutions — raise crucial question marks.
Iranian-American activist Sophia Kianni, elected influential figure for the climate in 2023 by Women’s Wear Daily, shakes the textile industry with its viral campaign by demanding concrete actions for eco-responsible fashion. At the heart of its advocacy: the urgency of making people aware of the harmfulness of materials used in fashion. This is coupled with an unequivocal requirement: that the industry honors its commitments to reduce greenhouse gases (GHG) made during the Paris Agreement (COP21).
In fact, 64% of fashion’s carbon impact comes from fabric manufacturing and textile processing, which require the use of fossil energy and chemicals. The key to reducing this carbon footprint? Support the energy transition and considerably reduce global clothing production. The visual campaign, in which Kianni covers himself in “oil”, provides a powerful visual metaphor for the devastating effects of synthetic products on the environment and health.
The effects on health also remain largely neglected. Reports like Toxic Threads highlight the presence of harmful substances in synthetic textiles, exposing human DNA to often latent damage. Among the culprits, benzidine-based azo dyes, used on a large scale in the textile industry, prove to be persistent agents, which threaten aquatic ecosystems and even drinking water.
These substances, known for their resistance to light and washing, are potential threats to human health, with documented carcinogenic implications. This is a reality often overlooked in debates on the energy transition, which calls for urgent awareness.
But what can fashion without oil look like?
British designer Stella McCartney marked COP28 pleading for radical change in the textile industry and increased investment in carbon-neutral innovations. His exhibition Innovate tomorrow’s solutionsin partnership with luxury group LVMH, brilliantly showcased plastic-free plant-based options, like Radiant Matter’s iridescent BioSequins and Allbirds’ Moonshot sneakers, that push the boundaries of creativity and sustainability.
Faced with growing concerns about the health consequences of synthetic dyes, a multidisciplinary collaboration between textile design, chemistry and environmental health is emerging as a relevant avenue to explore. The quest for non-toxic dyes is sparking renewed interest in natural dyes. This initiative aims to reduce the presence of synthetic molecules in waterways and in contact with our skin.
Stimulating perspectives are emerging in the rediscovery of forgotten know-how, under the leadership of the historian of natural dyes, Dominique Cardon. His book The 157 colors by Paul Gout offers an opportunity to revisit and experiment with dye recipes from the 18th centurye century, thus offering a look at the ancient art of coloring textiles more sustainably.
Through this approach focused on reducing GHGs, attention is turning to regional reindustrialization of the textile industry. This model resonates in California with the Fibershed concept, initiated by Rebecca Burgess, which aims to create clothing on a territorial scale. Since 2022, Fibershed Québec has been developing, at the initiative of Marie-Ève Faust, professor at the UQAM École supérieure de mode. Mapping our local resources has thus identified the needs and knowledge necessary for local textile manufacturing, in response to the expectations of local designers.
In short, the agreement resulting from COP28 for the energy transition constitutes a crucial response to the environmental consequences of petrochemicals in the textile industry. To ensure a sustainable future, it is essential to actively test and support emerging solutions, with a focus on regional initiatives.
However, these advances should not overshadow the fundamental imperative of reducing textile production to achieve more sustainable practices, thus highlighting the need for a more global paradigm shift. At the same time, the health problems linked to petrochemicals in textiles, often overlooked, call for urgent awareness. This reality must be integrated into debates on the energy transition for a more holistic vision of sustainability.