(Istanbul) Seven stars for its arrival on the Turkish scene, including two attributed to the same establishment, the Michelin distributed its first distinctions on Tuesday evening by celebrating in Istanbul a spirit of innovation and revisited tradition.
Posted at 1:52 p.m.
The megalopolis on the Bosphorus, heir to a long gastronomic tradition between the seas, Aegean and Mediterranean, and the Anatolian plateaus, now has five starred restaurants and 53 recommended addresses, “illustrating the richness of its culinary scene open to the world”, pointed out Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides.
Favorite of the famous guide, “Türk”, by chef Fatih Tutak, won two stars, a rare distinction for a first guide, thanks to its reinterpretation of traditional Turkish cuisine based on exclusively local products.
After sixteen years with great Asian chefs, including Paul Pairet in Singapore and René Redzepi in Copenhagen, Fatih Tutak, 37, returned to Istanbul, his city, in 2019 to open his own establishment.
The Michelin celebrates “a man’s attachment to his land and his roots” and highlights “his preparations often enhanced with delicate acid and smoky notes – the signature of the chef”.
“We are making history”, rejoiced the lucky winner, assuring that such a distinction, “any chef can dream of it”.
Among the four restaurants to earn a star, “Araka”, by the young chef Zeynep Pinar Tasdemir, is rewarded for “a daring menu that gives pride of place to seasonal vegetables and fresh herbs”.
“Nicole” plays on traditional recipes and spices from the Middle East, while “Mikla” and “Neolokal” – installed in the headquarters of the former Ottoman bank, in Galata – both play on the Anatolian repertoire, “between tradition and modernity”, insists the guide.
Neolokal is also hailed with a “Green Star”, a distinction that highlights “its eco-responsible and virtuous efforts and initiatives”.
“Chef Maksut Aşkar and his young team are particularly invested in safeguarding and promoting Turkish culinary heritage and terroirs – some of which are threatened with extinction,” insists the Michelin.
Finally, ten restaurants are awarded a “Bib Gourmand”, which highlights addresses offering very good quality cuisine at controlled prices: these addresses are therefore cited “for their excellent value for money”. A detail that counts in a country facing a violent economic crisis, and inflation of more than 83%.