This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
Taking the train in the mountains of Sri Lanka takes us back to the days of colonial Ceylon. Everything seems to come from another era, except the cell phones that both Sri Lankans and tourists carry. To fully savor the adventure, we opt for several stopovers and for trains of different classes, even the most dilapidated ones. Outside as well as inside, the scenes that pass by inevitably recall Robert Louis Stevenson’s famous phrase: “It’s not the destination that’s important, it’s the journey.” »
The journey begins with a tooth. Not just any canine tooth: a canine tooth that belonged to Buddha, recovered from his funeral pyre in 543 BC. BC and hidden “in seven boxes nested like Russian dolls”, specifies the Gallimard guide. The most revered temple on the island, Dalada Maligawa – also called simply “Temple of the Tooth” – serves as a setting for the relic. Three times a day, the seven golden caskets encrusted with precious stones are presented to the public to the sound of drums and flutes. Dancers follow the rhythm. Tourists wander past Sri Lankans on pilgrimage. That’s quite a start, barely 24 hours after our arrival in the country!
The story surrounding the arrival of the tooth in Sri Lanka seems to come from a Hollywood script as it is full of twists and turns. It is said that the precious relic was kept in India for eight centuries. After Hindu activists attempted to crush it into dust, the tooth was hidden in the hair of the king’s daughter, who was sent to the South Island. According to legend, the holder of this relic has the divine right to rule the country.
From one train to another
In Colombo, the Victorian silhouette of the Colombo-Fort central station had already set the tone. Almost everywhere throughout the stay, traces left by the English, the Dutch and the Portuguese punctuate the journey. The British influence of course remains the most visible, if only in tea culture.
However, it is from Kandy that rail journeys keep passengers glued to their windows. First, we have to talk about the trains themselves. While some cars seem rather well maintained, others still display inscriptions straight out of another century, such as those indicating seats reserved for members of the clergy. The decrepitude of the benches and walls gives a certain charm to these rickety convoys.
After climbing the mountain foothills, you can see the tea plantations on the horizon. This is usually the time when tourists rush to take their portraits, hanging from the side doors, which remain open for the duration of the trip.
Around Haputale, the word “picturesque” inevitably comes to mind. This is where the road leads to Sir Thomas Lipton’s favorite spot – now called Lipton’s Seat – who rode horseback to the top to admire the view. You can get there on foot or by tuk-tuk (a motorized tricycle designed to act as a taxi), depending on your level of motivation. Impossible to look at your cup of tea in the same way after seeing the Tamil pickers at work.
Nanu Oya and Nuwara Eliya
To reach Nuwara Eliya from Nanu Oya station, it takes around fifteen minutes by tuk-tuk or car. Here, the temperature contrasts with the stifling heat of Colombo. People even wear hats!
Nicknamed “Little England”, the city once saw English people passing by in search of a breath of fresh air. The mercury is 21 degrees when we arrive at the Jetwing St. Andrew’s hotel, a little further away. The welcome cocktail is… soup. ” It’s cold ! » repeat the employees of the establishment in turn, who go so far as to place hot water bottles at the foot of the bed. Built in 1875 above the tea plantations, the mansion is ideal for contemplation.
Ella She has
With its many cafes, bars and restaurants, the town of Ella is undoubtedly one of the most popular destinations in the heart of India. Its greatest asset, however, remains the superb views of the ridges and valleys. The Ella Gap divides two hills, from where the land undulates to the rim of the Indian Ocean. Hikers can also count on an extraordinary playground.
If a visit to the Uva Halpewatte factory allows you to discover the different stages of the production of Ceylon tea, it is above all the picture windows that attract the attention. What views for those who make tea!
On the train that takes us to Badulla the next day, we will see the building from the window. No doubt, it is by blending into the horizon that we best experience this country, where a certain nostalgia rubs shoulders with the hope of better days.
This trip was possible thanks to plane tickets offered by Cathay Pacific and the Voyageurs du monde agency, which took care of the smallest details of the stay. All opinions expressed in this text are those of the author.
This content was produced by the Special Publications team at Duty, relating to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part.