(Paris) Evanescent ribbons or drapery on the shoulders reminiscent of the waves: the Dior man takes it easy with clothes that are dressed or adapted to activities on the water.
“There is a new sense of ease in the collection, in a combination of formal and informal […] a feeling of metamorphosis and change through the motif of water,” Briton Kim Jones, artistic director of the Dior menswear collections, told AFP.
An ultra-chic white coat with ribbons sticking out, following the look like mini-trains, worn over Bermuda shorts with imposing white boots and knee-high socks set the tone for this fall-winter collection presented as part of of the men’s ready-to-wear week in Paris.
At a slower pace, the Place de la Concorde parade took place in a multimedia staging imagined by the filmmaker Baillie Walsh and directed by the composer Max Richter with a small orchestra.
Close-ups of the faces of actors Robert Pattinson and Gwendoline Christie reciting excerpts from The Wasteland by the American poet TS Eliot were projected on the walls of the pavilion, as well as those of models and details of outfits before they were seen in person.
T. S Eliot’s literary motifs, the Thames and the Seine inspired Kim Jones for her flowing silhouettes. Masculine and feminine elements blend for more sensuality.
In the light gray suits, the tradition and materials of the ” tailoring English meet those of French haute couture. The fall and the movement of the pants are fascinating, but there is also a wide choice of bermuda shorts.
Several pieces that take on color — yellow or bright blue — evoke the clothing of fishermen and sailors.
Chunky 3D-printed shoes and boots also invite outdoor activities.
The handbags are stripped of superfluous elements in an approach to simplification in homage to Yves Saint Laurent.
Saint Laurent, appointed at the age of 21 to Christian Dior after the latter’s death and who presented his first collection for this house 65 years ago in 1958, is the main source of inspiration for this parade.