For the protection of the environment or the enhancement of the work of market gardeners, cooking in season has become a principle that goes beyond the trend. But when the mercury dips below zero, it can all become a pretty challenge. How to cook locally in the cold season? The duty discussed it with certain chefs for whom local products are the DNA of their work.
Back from the hunt, Émile Tremblay, chef and co-owner of the Faux Bergers and La Louve restaurants — Nice bar in Baie-Saint-Paul — is finishing preparing his moose meat for aging. Very close to him, freshly picked Jerusalem artichokes are waiting to be processed. “We’ve been preparing for winter since August,” he says, listing the techniques used to preserve as many harvests as possible. Lactofermentation, freezing, drying, nothing is left to chance, not even the nasturtium leaves which will become a concentrated chlorophyll juice in the whiteness of winter. “I like to say that I imprison the flavors of summer! According to him, this is the secret to adding a dose of pleasure and to cooking local foods all year round. “In winter, it’s more dishes in sauce, braised meats, potatoes, mashed potatoes. There are fewer fresh vegetables, but it’s no less tasty. “One of his tricks: “block” the freshness thanks to freezing. “If you leave a squash on the counter for two months…it will taste like old squash!” »
Of course, it is not today that we make a maximum of reserves in anticipation of winter, but this task, which also requires time, is not feasible for everyone, conceives Tim Moroney. The chef-owner of the Alentours restaurant sources his supplies only within a radius of 150 kilometers around Quebec City. From the start of the harvest, he takes all his free time to stock up and process several ingredients. He also prefers freezing. “We challenge ourselves to offer five services of the same quality, whether in August or February. It is our requirement, but at home, we do not need to have this same variety. Make your own fresh strawberry jam [plutôt que d’en acheter], It’s already good. »
For chef Jean-Sébastien Giguère, author of the book Climates. Kitchen+wine with the seasons, people should take the pressure off themselves of having to process a wide variety of fruits and vegetables at home, but should instead plan preparations that they will actually use and that freeze well. He lists some condiments, including salsa verde and dandelion chimichurri, great ways to incorporate local foods and a touch of green into winter dishes.
Stop prejudice
Consuming locally year-round is something that must be learned, believes Tim Moroney, who encourages an education system that trains young people in the tasks of adult life, such as cooking or managing a personal budget. “Adapting to the seasons in the kitchen takes practice,” he says. Many people have a recipe for banana bread in their notebook, but it is not a recipe that is useful for our agriculture. Instead, learn how to process squash. Even we at the restaurant continually challenge ourselves to find new ways to cook them. »
He continues by evoking the prejudices associated with cellar vegetables, such as carrots, cabbage, rutabaga or beets. He suggests taking a look at restaurant menus to find ideas. “Many of us use winter products, it can be good sources of inspiration at home. »
Take time
With his work, Jean-Sébastien Giguère wishes to offer fine cuisine that follows the seasons and is adapted to domestic equipment. For the rest, the chef, at the head of several restaurants, including Le Coureur des bois in Beloeil, admits that he is not “reinventing the wheel”. Above all, it proposes to see the ingredients other than in their initial form. “I pass the beets through a juice extractor and use them to marinate a salmon confit. I cook the boulangère potato, that is to say in thin slices, and I use root vegetables for my broth. Cooking in the cold season, associated with comfort food, appeals to him as much as these tubers which have less water and which require slow cooking. “We turn on the oven and take our time. »
Émile Tremblay is already thinking of the chaga cream linked to the potato or the fish dish which he will accompany with an asparagus juice whipped in butter – he who had meticulously vacuum-packed the asparagus feet last spring. . “Each season is the fun, but the real challenge is the months of May and June. We are at the end [des réserves] and it’s not growing in the fields yet. You have to plan ahead! »
Chef Tremblay talks about his gratitude for having access to such a great diversity of local ingredients. A feeling he has in common with Tim Moroney, who shares his philosophy: “In my business decisions, I see the long term for future generations, but at the same time, life is short. So, I say, “Let’s eat well, drink good wine, but let’s choose products from farmers around us who deserve our financial and emotional support.” »
Climates. Food + wine according to the seasonspublished by Éditions La Presse, will be in bookstores from October 20.