The Armani man, between refinement and nonchalance

(Milan) The “king” of Italian fashion, Giorgio Armani, 89, unveiled on Monday in Milan a men’s fall-winter 2024/2025 collection combining refinement and nonchalance, marked by fluid cuts and soft lines.

Under the blue eye of the maestro, reproduced in a gigantic moon dominating the catwalk, the models stroll in the intimate setting of the historic headquarters on via Borgonuovo, the antipodes of fashion-spectacle.

“Men’s fashion should not be an object of desire at all costs, it should be a beautiful suit, a beautiful jacket, a beautiful fabric, a beautiful color and nothing more, because otherwise we risk having a carnival,” he said. commented the designer.

Faithful to its casual chic DNA, Giorgio Armani opted for loose but refined pants, and mid-length coats worn open which promote freedom of movement.

For next winter, the volumes have been increased, “to give even more ease and fluidity” to the clothes in the collection, explains Giorgio Armani.

The deconstructed jacket, without shoulder pads and unlined, the brand’s emblem, has been declined endlessly: dandy style, it goes with the essential vest and pleated pants. Sports version, it is worn over cargo pants slipped into boots.

The couturier’s eternal challenge consists of “doing the usual in an unusual way”, he confided after the show, on the fourth day of Men’s Fashion Week.

The master thus gives himself a few little offbeat touches: a large leather coat lined with faux leopard fur or a strict suit matched with a somewhat puffy tie.

But the tie is very discreet in the fashion show, it is thin, black or gray, hidden under a blazer and often replaced by a scarf.

“The tie depends on the occasion, we make it worn by the man who goes to the office, with respect for this office, because I hope he does not go in a t-shirt to an important meeting”, quipped Giorgio Armani.

Black and gray are omnipresent, combined as desired with greige, green, but also pink, light blue and dark blue.

Giorgio Armani presented on Saturday the new collection of his Emporio line, high-end ready-to-wear aimed at a trendy clientele, inspired by the marine world and focused on adventure and daring.