This text is part of the special book Plaisirs
Superficial, skin care? We often have the impression that this highly lucrative industry only sells us dreams… and ten-step beauty rituals. However, certain actions — cleaning our skin, moisturizing it if necessary and protecting it from UV rays — remain essential in order to keep our organ healthy. Skin experts (and foodies!) help us sort out the essential from the superfluous.
A huge organ, our skin covers an area of some two square meters. “The skin is a fascinating and complex organ at the same time, summarizes the international scientific director of Lancôme, Annie Black, a Quebec researcher who works in France in the brand’s laboratories. The most important thing is to ensure the health of its barrier function. ” How? ‘Or’ What ? Among other things, by taking care of our skin microbiota or, in other words, the good bacteria found naturally on the skin.
In this sense, the slightest microbial imbalance can cause skin problems, science tells us. It would even be one of the causes of eczema, recalls the American doctor and journalist James Hamblin in Clean: The New Science of Skin, an essay published in 2020 and which clashes with our sanitized era. “We are currently doing cutting-edge research on the subject,” confirms Annie Black.
“Of course, we don’t take care of our skin like we take care of a kidney or a heart, but like most things, it’s all about balance and moderation,” adds Mireille Vega. , creator of the Quebec brand V*GAM.
No more stripping products. To preserve the microbes of the skin, we must show delicacy, regardless of our skin type. The biochemist thus relies first and foremost on a simplified facial care routine, far from the Korean rituals in ten steps. “I recommend cleaning once a day, in the evening before going to bed. In the morning, a simple rinse with water is usually enough. »
Dermatological prescription
Dermatologist at CHUL, Geneviève Thérien also prescribes a minimalist skincare regimen. “It’s important to wash your skin and your face once a day with a gentle cleanser, without soap and therefore with a more acidic pH, she explains. By using this kind of cleaner, we preserve the lipid layer that serves as food for microorganisms. »
Moisturizer, on the other hand, is not always essential, nuances the DD Therian. “If our skin feels tight, it’s a sign that we need it. » Which product to choose? Certainly, it is not because a cream is expensive that it is better than another, according to her. “There are more interesting creams than others to moisturize the skin, for example those that contain ceramides or hyaluronic acid. Afterwards, it’s a question of taste, of texture. Yes, there is marketing, but will the most expensive cream be more effective? Sometimes yes, sometimes no. There is no miracle product that is right for everyone. I often tell my patients: try several samples and choose the one that you like best and that best suits your budget and your values. »
Last step, but not least: sun protection. Here again, we are spoiled for choice. “Organic sunscreens [minéraux] and inorganic [chimiques] are just as effective, she points out. The important thing is to wear it every day, even in winter. »
It’s not more complicated. The rest — masks, serums and how much ? “It’s candy, judge Mireille Vega. We make ourselves a mask for the experience. Here, we are no longer talking about functional care, but more of a pleasure. Don’t get me wrong: I have nothing against masks. If it makes you feel good, why not? »